[Tigers] Tigers Digest, Vol 8, Issue 208
Gary
garywinblad at comcast.net
Sun Sep 18 19:26:24 MDT 2016
And they have 3 terminals, 12v, gauges, AND ground (the mount lug).
If no ground (reg not screwed to
clean grounded metal, the gauges should read high but still function,
since the are running on 12v instead
of 10v.
Gary
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 18, 2016, at 2:24 PM, Joel Martin via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> The MGB voltage stabilizer is the same one the tiger uses.
>
> Joel Martin
>
>
> From: "tigers-request at autox.team.net" <tigers-request at autox.team.net>
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2016 12:23 PM
> Subject: Tigers Digest, Vol 8, Issue 208
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Dash Pieces (CoolVT at aol.com)
> 2. Re: Dash Pieces (Larry Mayfield)
> 3. Re: Dash Pieces (Andy Walker)
> Mayf,
> Pretty sure the power to the gauges and dash lights come from the voltage stabilizer. It's a little squarish, metal device about 2"x2" and is screwed to the support column that goes from the dash to the firewall (just to the right of the steering column). If you pull the wires off be sure to label where each goes because the color coding of the wires will probably be faded. Not sure of a source for the stabilizer if that's the problem.
> Mark L
>
> In a message dated 9/18/2016 4:15:19 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tigers at autox.team.net writes:
> Ok, I am replacing and adding a couple of dash switches to my car. The pieces I need are the chrome screw on switch bezel for use on the wood dash. Is there a source for such? I have the switches but sadly they do not come with them.
>
> And I am having the dickens of a time with the instruments: mostly with the dash lights. I know grounds are the typical source or cause of the problems and I have been attacking that as best I can. Also there does not seem to be power to that circuit, even when I turn the lights on and the panel switch as well. I replaced the fuse block and that did help. More voltage. Was pretty corroded. New one has a spiffy cover and I applied dielectric grease as well. The wipers work, the horn honks the heater motor runs, have oil pressure, but no dash light or fuel level or temp. Also purchased a brake light switch as well. Turn signals work as does the green indicator light on the dash. Head lights ( high and low beams), turn signals and stop light all work. Part of the issue is size 100 hands (big) in a size 3 under dash. So I am going to keep after it. Was there an wiring change in the MK1 production run? The wiring on my gas and temp gages does not look like the schematic. If I look at the back side of the fuel gage and temp gage what wire goes where?
>
> Some remote help needed here… at least some advice or comment.
>
> mayf
> _________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit (not top) speed
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
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>
>
> Mark, perhaps that is part of my problem, But, my wiring schematic shows the dash instrument lights coming from the panel light switch, which gets its power from the main light switch. The only thing my schematic shows coming from the instrument regulator are the 10 volts to the in tank fuel level resistance and to the temp sensor resistor. Nothing going to lights at all. But the voltage stabilizer may indeed be farkled. When powered on, the fuel gage reads full and when off, slowly returns to 0 . The temp gage does not do anything.
> As to dash lights, I have even tried putting voltage on the red with white stripe wire and grounding a bulbs socket to see if that light works. Nothing.
>
> I will see if I can get the stabilizer out and check its functionality. I suspect that I might be able to do that without removing it though? Like v=using a voltmeter on the GB wire from the =stabilizer to ground. Yeah, I’ll give that a try.
>
> Sure will be great to get dash lights and the temp and fuel gages working! Last items on my list. Part of my [problem stems from a long latency between when it was apart and now. I do remember that when I replaced the old dash that when I removed a gauge I put the wires back on in the same place so that when I put the new wood in everything, I thought, went back in the same location and terminal.
>
> Many thanks for the suggestions, new avenues to test!
>
> mayf
>
> From: CoolVT at aol.com [mailto:CoolVT at aol.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2016 6:56 AM
> To: drmayf at mayfco.com; tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dash Pieces
>
> Mayf,
> Pretty sure the power to the gauges and dash lights come from the voltage stabilizer. It's a little squarish, metal device about 2"x2" and is screwed to the support column that goes from the dash to the firewall (just to the right of the steering column). If you pull the wires off be sure to label where each goes because the color coding of the wires will probably be faded. Not sure of a source for the stabilizer if that's the problem.
> Mark L
>
> In a message dated 9/18/2016 4:15:19 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tigers at autox.team.net writes:
> <mime-attachment.jpg>
> Ok, I am replacing and adding a couple of dash switches to my car. The pieces I need are the chrome screw on switch bezel for use on the wood dash. Is there a source for such? I have the switches but sadly they do not come with them.
>
> And I am having the dickens of a time with the instruments: mostly with the dash lights. I know grounds are the typical source or cause of the problems and I have been attacking that as best I can. Also there does not seem to be power to that circuit, even when I turn the lights on and the panel switch as well. I replaced the fuse block and that did help. More voltage. Was pretty corroded. New one has a spiffy cover and I applied dielectric grease as well. The wipers work, the horn honks the heater motor runs, have oil pressure, but no dash light or fuel level or temp. Also purchased a brake light switch as well. Turn signals work as does the green indicator light on the dash. Head lights ( high and low beams), turn signals and stop light all work. Part of the issue is size 100 hands (big) in a size 3 under dash. So I am going to keep after it. Was there an wiring change in the MK1 production run? The wiring on my gas and temp gages does not look like the schematic. If I look at the back side of the fuel gage and temp gage what wire goes where?
>
> Some remote help needed here… at least some advice or comment.
>
> mayf
> _________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit (not top) speed
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com
>
> Mayf:
>
> To continue what Mark is saying, if you end up needing one the voltage stabilizer is available from several sources; Rick at SS and Nisonger Instruments, for example.
>
> Andy Walker
> Edmond, OK
>
> From: Tigers [mailto:tigers-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CoolVT--- via Tigers
> Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2016 8:56 AM
> To: drmayf at mayfco.com; tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Tigers] Dash Pieces
>
> Mayf,
> Pretty sure the power to the gauges and dash lights come from the voltage stabilizer. It's a little squarish, metal device about 2"x2" and is screwed to the support column that goes from the dash to the firewall (just to the right of the steering column). If you pull the wires off be sure to label where each goes because the color coding of the wires will probably be faded. Not sure of a source for the stabilizer if that's the problem.
> Mark L
>
> In a message dated 9/18/2016 4:15:19 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tigers at autox.team.net writes:
> <mime-attachment.jpg>
> Ok, I am replacing and adding a couple of dash switches to my car. The pieces I need are the chrome screw on switch bezel for use on the wood dash. Is there a source for such? I have the switches but sadly they do not come with them.
>
> And I am having the dickens of a time with the instruments: mostly with the dash lights. I know grounds are the typical source or cause of the problems and I have been attacking that as best I can. Also there does not seem to be power to that circuit, even when I turn the lights on and the panel switch as well. I replaced the fuse block and that did help. More voltage. Was pretty corroded. New one has a spiffy cover and I applied dielectric grease as well. The wipers work, the horn honks the heater motor runs, have oil pressure, but no dash light or fuel level or temp. Also purchased a brake light switch as well. Turn signals work as does the green indicator light on the dash. Head lights ( high and low beams), turn signals and stop light all work. Part of the issue is size 100 hands (big) in a size 3 under dash. So I am going to keep after it. Was there an wiring change in the MK1 production run? The wiring on my gas and temp gages does not look like the schematic. If I look at the back side of the fuel gage and temp gage what wire goes where?
>
> Some remote help needed here… at least some advice or comment.
>
> mayf
> _________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit (not top) speed
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/coolvt@aol.com
>
>
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>
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