[Tigers] Axle removal process.

Sat Apr 18 18:58:16 MDT 2015

*** update***

SUCCESS!  Thank you Tom Witt for the detailed description and Duke Samouce for graphics and offers to help. I would up approaching it like Tom described and it worked exactly as he said. 

I sold the rear end (not the one in my car, this one came out of an old parts car) and I just wanted to keep the gears and diff. So I really am not concerned at this moment of putting it back together. Well, I cobbled together a nasty slide hammer out of pieces of structural steel pipe and welded it to an old steel wheel. 3 hard slides along a 3 foot pipe and those axles popped right out.  Built a quick case spreader out of angle iron and all thread and the diff came right out. 

Thanks everyone!!
Cullen
Alp260 1452
Yukon ok. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 18, 2015, at 9:48 AM, Tom Witt via Tigers <tigers at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Cullen,
> You won't find this in the Shop Notes, or likely recommended by anyone. But, given the rust issues your hubs MAY be as "frozen" as mine were.  First I tried every hub puller I had access to and nearly pulled the car off the jackstands. So, I removed the axle/hub/backing plate as one piece. Even there the bearings were SO tight in the housing that I AGAIN nearly knocked the car off the jackstands removing them. Eventually they did release by fashioning a slide hammer that used two 10 pound weights (20 pounds total) and slamming them into a stop with a 3 foot run. It took about ten of these whacks to get the bearing/axle out of the housing.
> 
> I then took a steel wheel and bolted it to the axle. I suspended the wheel between two tightly spaced sawhorses, reversed the nut and backed it off to the edge of the threads, and place a sacrificial steel plate over the nut. After applying penetrating oil and heat it took about 15-20 full force overhead swinging whacks from a 10 pound sledge hammer before the hub FINALLY released from the axle. The threads on the end on one axle weren't too pretty and I can't account for the wheel being straight, but surprisingly the sawhorses held up.  One day at Salisbury their had to have a contest to force mis-matched tolerance parts together and that was the rear end that went into my car.  I say this just in case you get desperate but are persistent.
> 
> Ideally you have a puller that tightens to the hub at all four points and then and a center bolt that presses against the axle.  Some people here have made their own.  But, as I have mentioned getting the hub off the axle AND the axle/bear out of the housing are two different processes that offer restraint - often of a near overwhelming magnitude. 15 years ago when I posted this many people thought I was exaggerating. Well, I've done this before on other cars and NEVER had the near the difficulties I had with the Tiger's rear end.  My hope for you is regardless of the rust that things go easier for you. Lastly be careful not to damage the steel shims associated with the retainer. Mark them as to what side they came off also as they set the axle end play.
> 
> -----Original Message----- From: Cullen McCann via Tigers
> Sent: Friday, April 17, 2015 6:46 PM
> To: tigers at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Tigers] Axle removal process.
> 
> Dearest technical support community of ever present knowledge and wisdom,
> 
> I am desperate. I left my binder of shop notes at, well, my other
> shop. It would probably contain my answer, but they are out of reach
> at the moment. Before I tell you how far I have gotten unsuccessfully,
> and to what level of drama, I will beg for advice.
> 
> Can somebody please outline the basic steps of removing the stock
> axles and differential from with in a factory Tiger rear end housing?
> I have never done it on a Tiger. Ultimately all I want to do is get
> the posi unit and gears out. Here is what I understand:
> 
> The axles have to come out first. To get the axles out, the hubs have
> to come off, correct? I am familiar with the exploded diagrams showing
> the basic components of the Tiger axle shafts and hub assembly. The
> axle shaft is a tapered end and the hub is pressed-on, so after the
> retaining nut and washer is removed, removing the hub with a hub
> puller tool that applies force by pulling outward on the hub, and
> pushing inward on the end-dimple of the axle centerline should draw
> the hub off correct? Can the proposed hub puller tool anchor to the
> lug studs?
> 
> This rear end came out of MK1a that had rust issues. But has a nice
> posi unit and set of 3.31's. I really want it out...
> 
> please be gentle and thank you for your help.
> 
> Cullen
> Alpine 260 '1452
> Yukon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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