[Tigers] hardtop buying advice

Dave Munroe dave at munroe.ca
Fri Oct 12 08:37:36 MDT 2012


Hi Cullen:

I recently finished the restoration of a hardtop that was in about the same 
condition as yours. It also had a full complement of pieces, parts and 
fittings, most of which I was able to clean up and use.

I did purchase everything SS has for the hardtop including all the gaskets, 
seals, rear and side windows, rear window trim clips, headliner, etc which 
set me back in the vicinity of $750 - $800. Some materials were available 
locally like the inside roof stiffener, insulation material, contact cement 
etc. I had the body work done by a shop owner friend for a killer price so I 
won't mention that, but the assembly of everything but the side trim pieces 
was done by me.

So you can pretty much count on spending roughly $1,000 plus the cost of the 
top plus body and paint work.
As Theo said, they are now going for $2,000 to $3,500, so you have to do 
your own math.

My thought on value included the additional attraction to a buyer when the 
time comes to part with your car, (either you or your estate!), the 
opportunity to extend the bookends of your driving season in greater 
comfort(if you have any interest in that), and the benefits that come with a 
hardtop that you wouldn't grasp until you actually installed it and went for 
your first ride: it noticeably stiffens the overall driving experience, its 
quieter, the door windows get a better seal than the soft top, and man does 
it ever warm up in the chilly weather better!

In fact, for the first time, I became aware of how much heat was coming from 
a leaky heater control valve: when it is fully closed, enough coolant still 
passes through to make the cabin uncomfortable on a warm day. I installed a 
standard 1/2" plumbing valve in the heater line between the intake manifold 
and the heater valve, and the cabin is cooler than I had ever expected it 
could be. (Bonus!)

So good luck with your decision. If you decide to go through with the 
restoration and want to know how I got past several road blocks not covered 
in the usual places to look, feel free to contact me.

Dave


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cullen McCann" <cmccann1972 at gmail.com>
To: <tigers at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 10:59 AM
Subject: [Tigers] hardtop buying advice


> guys, some quick advice if you dont mind.
>
> i have access to a factory hardtop that will fit my Mk1a.
>
> the bad: its rusty in the c-pillars, on the flat lower mounting flange as
> well as holes about an inch in diameter on the inside only of both 
> c-pillar
> inside faces. the outer skin seems ok. the frame below the rear window is
> bent like someone picked it up in the middle or maybe dropped it, but it
> didnt crease. if you set the top on the car the frame below the rear 
> window
> sits up away form the body in the middle of the top by about an inch, if
> that makes sense. like the lower window frame is bent. maybe it was set on
> its side and some one leaned on it or set something heavy on it.
>
> the good: it appears to be 100% complete in all respect of trim, 
> mouldings,
> latches etc...except for the rear window surround stainless trim. no dents
> on top, no hail damage. and its 400 bucks. There is one on ebay right now
> for 3500 dollars that looks like someone sat on it.
>
> i dont want to spend even a grand on one any time soon, and i can repair
> the rust myself as i am qualified in sheet metal work. and i THINK i can
> bend that lower frame back into place, especially since it didnt crease 
> the
> metal.
>
> based on my description...is this still a great deal? run like hell?
>
> if my only option is to spend 1500 to 2500 bucks ill just pass on it and
> never even look.
>
> Thanks for your thoughts.
>
> cullen
> B382001452 LROFE
> Alpine 260, TAC 840


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