[Spridgets] Brake Bleed
Rick Fisk
refisk at chartermi.net
Sun Jan 16 14:46:12 MST 2022
In my experience the usual cause is rear brakes not adjusted tight enough. The first press of the pedal moves the shoes away from their resting position, but not all the way to the drum. A quick second press of the pedal moves them even further. A quick third press of the pedal may put the shoes in contact with the drum and the pedal feels hard. Release the pedal and the shoes move all the way back to their initial resting position and you start all over again when you want to use the brakes. No air in the system and the pedal feels great once you get the shoes all the way out to the drum.
Rick
> On Jan 16, 2022, at 4:32 PM, Weslake1330 via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> I don't mind friendly disagreements - its one of the best ways to learn! Ok. I guess hard is a relative term. Assuming I'm wrong, and there is no air in the system what is causing the pedal to need to pump up?
>
>> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 10:17, GUY DAY <grday at btinternet.com> wrote:
>> Sorry Wes,
>> I've got to disagree with part of your last comment. <snip> If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system.<end snip>. If the pedal stays hard there is NO air (or leaks) in the system. If there is air in the system then the pedal will feel 'springy' or 'bouncy'. Air will always act as a spring within a fluid system and anything akin to a discerning foot will feel it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Fully agree with the rest of your post - and I've had people saying the brakes are fine as the pedal very slowly sinks to the floor!. It feels firm but the pedal sinks over a minute or so. (If no fluid is lost there is a seal leak in the m/cyl).
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Stay well,
>>
>>
>>
>> Guy R Day
>>
>>
>>
>> ------ Original Message ------
>> From: "Weslake1330 via Spridgets" <spridgets at autox.team.net>
>> To: "Michael MacLean" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
>> Cc: "Spridgets" <spridgets at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sunday, 16 Jan, 22 At 09:22
>> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed
>>
>> Air can get trapped in a solid brake line and not easily find its way to the slave to be bled out. I have heard some people say that after driving the car a few times the air moves about and then the system bleeds better. On my Sprite I've sometimes left it a week and then come back to it and re-bled it with a better result. I'm also always resigned to using massive amount of fluid and pumping it all through. I do have s/s easy bleed nipples but still use a basic bleeding tool as well.
>>
>> If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the system. If it pumps up hard but won't stay absolutely hard - something isn't quite seating correcting or you have some other sort of leak.
>>
>> Regards
>>
>>
>> Daniel
>>
>>> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 08:49, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. The old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity you can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will try to wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps.
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>> On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk <refisk at chartermi.net> wrote:
>>>> Hi Mike,
>>>>
>>>> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm.
>>>>
>>>> Rick
>>>>
>>>> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8" sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts like there is still air in the system. Any ideas?
>>>> > Mike MacLean
>>>> > ------------------------
>>>> >
>>>> > spridgets at autox.team.net
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