[Spridgets] Brake Bleed

[Weslake1330]

I don't mind friendly disagreements - its one of the best ways to learn!
Ok.  I guess hard is a relative term.  Assuming I'm wrong, and there is no
air in the system what is causing the pedal to need to pump up?

On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 10:17, GUY DAY <grday at btinternet.com> wrote:

> Sorry Wes,
>
> I've got to disagree with part of your last comment. <snip> If the pedal
> pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in the
> system.<end snip>. If the pedal stays hard there is NO air (or leaks) in
> the system. If there is air in the system then the pedal will feel
> 'springy' or 'bouncy'. Air will always act as a spring within a fluid
> system and anything akin to a discerning foot will feel it.
>
>
> Fully agree with the rest of your post - and I've had people saying the
> brakes are fine as the pedal very slowly sinks to the floor!. It feels firm
> but the pedal sinks over a minute or so. (If no fluid is lost there is a
> seal leak in the m/cyl).
>
>
>
> Stay well,
>
>
> Guy R Day
>
>
>
> ------ Original Message ------
> From: "Weslake1330 via Spridgets" <spridgets at autox.team.net>
> To: "Michael MacLean" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> Cc: "Spridgets" <spridgets at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, 16 Jan, 22 At 09:22
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Brake Bleed
>
> Air can get trapped in a solid brake line and not easily find its way to
> the slave to be bled out. I have heard some people say that after driving
> the car a few times the air moves about and then the system bleeds better.
> On my Sprite I've sometimes left it a week and then come back to it and
> re-bled it with a better result. I'm also always resigned to using massive
> amount of fluid and pumping it all through. I do have s/s easy bleed
> nipples but still use a basic bleeding tool as well.
>
> If the pedal pumps up hard and absolutely stays hard there is still air in
> the system. If it pumps up hard but won't stay absolutely hard - something
> isn't quite seating correcting or you have some other sort of leak.
>
> Regards
>
>
> Daniel
>
> On Sun, 16 Jan 2022 at 08:49, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> You're right. I got it backasswards. New master with twin 3/4" bores. The
>> old one was 7/8" in one bore for the drum brakes and 3/4" bore for the
>> Datsun clutch in the other. Rear is adjusted as best as possible. Pity you
>> can't get shoes arced anymore for full contact with the drum. I will try to
>> wear them in and keep adjusting to see if that helps.
>> Mike
>>
>> On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 9:20 PM Rick Fisk <refisk at chartermi.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Mike,
>>>
>>> Front disc brakes should have a 3/4" master. Make sure the rear drums
>>> are adjusted properly. If the rears aren't adjusted properly you quite
>>> often will have to pump the pedal to get it firm.
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>> > On Jan 15, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Michael MacLean via Spridgets <
>>> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> >
>>> > 
>>> > The front drum brakes and master cylinder on my Bugeye were recently
>>> swapped out for disc brakes. The old master was 3/4" bore with a 7/8"
>>> sleeve for the Datsun clutch. The new master is 7/8" in both bores to
>>> actuate the calipers correctly. Installation went without a hitch and the
>>> car was bled multiple times, but for some reason the brake pedal goes down
>>> aways before it works. You can actually pump the pedal up a bit. We can't
>>> understand it. There are no leaks and it was bled properly, butt it acts
>>> like there is still air in the system. Any ideas?
>>> > Mike MacLean
>>> > ------------------------
>>> >
>>> > spridgets at autox.team.net
>>> >
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>>> ------------------------
>>
>> spridgets at autox.team.net
>>
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