[Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch

Sun Jul 11 18:45:13 MDT 2021

Thanks. I must not have put the paper clip on correctly. This time should work![cid:9B1B96E1-0F23-4595-8637-F657543E560B-L0-001][cid:6D71CD1B-A4C6-490A-9F37-327AE89F9AE6-L0-001][cid:50146577-C036-4D7E-8D20-30305E841A5A-L0-001]

Thanks, Phil

On Jul 11, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk at chartermi.net> wrote:

Forgot the pictures Phil.  :-)

Do you keep your foot on the clutch at red lights?  I don't know your driving technique, but riding the clutch can cause premature bearing failure.  The only time I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears.  If the pressure plate is bad it can cause failure.  we need to see the pictures.

Rick

On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas at msn.com> wrote:

 So, the engine is out and …. The clutch plate was in correctly. Purely by luck but sometime that is ok.   The question Rick asked is still open. I can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit British Auto Works tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one.  I have attached a few pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one I pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in there and it is clearly failing.   Why? Last is a picture of the back of the pressure plate where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer trust it, it will be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on what would make a new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving?

Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice!

On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk at chartermi.net> wrote:

Hi Phil,

Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit?  There are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine.  Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference.

Rick

<image0.jpeg>

On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be.  The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission.  At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car.

Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system.

Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse.  Not a place I can stay.  I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again.  I wish I could say it was better, but no real change.

I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder.  As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work?  There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars?  I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male).  Is there such an adapter off the shelf?

Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal?  I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission.

Open to any and all input!

Thanks, Phil

Thanks, Phil
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