[Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch

[Phil Sarikas]

Well,   Sadly it took longer that I had hoped as my ezbleed failed catastrophically and created quite the mess. I was unable to bleed it the classic way and now own a harbor freight bleeder and have what feels like a proper pedal.  That bind said, I measure 3/8 of and inch of travel at the slave cylinder and 3/4 of and inch of movement at the master cylinder. Based on my understood diameters of 0.7 inch diameter for the master and 1.0 on the slave, this movement is within my limited ability to measure displacement at each end.

Overnight I will see if I can get a reasonable view of the throw out bearing

Any thoughts on where to look next?  Time to get and adapter to used the smaller cylinder from the 1098?  Has that been done by anyone who can share how they did it?

Thanks, Phil

On Jul 5, 2021, at 7:54 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas at msn.com> wrote:
 Great question on the movement distance.  I did not measure it and at this moment the slave cylinder is on the bench either awaiting replacement or a new seal in it. I am not sure what you mean by return spring, I did reuse the clips that hold it to the clutch fork. If necessary , I will put the slave cylinder back in as soon as I can.

Thanks, Phil

On Jul 5, 2021, at 2:55 PM, Jim Seippel <aseippel at austin.rr.com> wrote:


When you push the clutch one time to the bottom of the pedal, how far dues the slave cylinder rod travel? Did you put a return spring on the release bearing arm?
Jim

From: Spridgets <spridgets-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Phil Sarikas via Spridgets
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2021 12:45 PM
To: spridgets at autox.team.net
Subject: [Spridgets] Need help with my 67 Sprite clutch


I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be.  The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage transmission.  At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car.



Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic system.



Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse.  Not a place I can stay.  I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again.  I wish I could say it was better, but no real change.



I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and none for the slave cylinder.  As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part work?  There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars?  I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to be male).  Is there such an adapter off the shelf?



Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal?  I did check with a camera, I am getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission.



Open to any and all input!


Thanks, Phil

Thanks, Phil
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