[Spridgets] Brake Bleed From Hell Yesterday!

Fri Jun 28 07:39:05 MDT 2019

Yes, yes and yes, Lester, I tried everything on the hoses to the Mityvac
pump and I never let the MC go dry. With a new 1/4" hose to the vac it was
better but too late too much air got in. Yes I turned the adjuster to clear
the pads as I do understand how to adjust that screw. Although when I get
all my new parts I'll require a list to learn that adjustment.

Three new questions:

1. If I remove these drivers pads & the spring parts and put the drum back
on and wheel to roll her what could happen if I press the brake peddle will
I brake anything? Will the calipers up front and rear passengers pads stop
the car so I can use engine power to move it and not hurt my back?

2. How do I know what size this wheel cylinder is to buy another for
temporary use till Gerard's parts arrive? Victoria British catalog lists
several sizes as per engine size & I did not install these but I do have an
upgraded 1275 and front disc brakes so I'm assuming they are for 1275 (see
pics attached).

3. The front calipers are making the front wheels tight to rotate but with
wheels on I can rotate, do I unbolt the calipers to inspect as I recall
doing this before with my Spitfire back in the day and I press the pads in
to get back on the disc.

Again thanks for all your help Lester and to all the List,
Linda

On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 8:51 AM JMFangio <oldsaabguy at comcast.net> wrote:

> First, using your “oh so shitty’ Mityvac, you did put some grease around
> the nipple being bled right?  It’s important as air will come in through
> the threads.  In fact air coming in is most likely from there or from the
> master if you ran out of fluid.  I haven’t had much luck with Mityvacs
> either FWIW.
>
> Second, yup, put the drum on and roll away.
>
> Third, just to be sure, the adjuster on the wheel you are putting back on
> needs to be all the way in, second getting the shoes aligned perfectly to
> get the drum back on takes a little fiddling, if there is rust on the edge
> of the drum (where it first contacts the shoes going on ) that won’t help
> things.
>
> Lastly, the wheel cylinders are inexpensive, get new ones.
>
> Lester
>
>
> On Jun 28, 2019, at 7:37 AM, Linda Grunthaner via Spridgets <
> spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> List,
> I'm waiting for all new parts from Gerard so that is the good news, yes
> just be patient Linda. Below starts my bad news of not being successful
> which seems to be my biggest problem being "defeated" when working on any
> car project especially a Spridget.
>
> While I'm waiting for my parts to be built from Gerard I wanted to get my
> Spridget out of the driveway so I can get the VW bus out of the garage and
> in turn get my motorcycle out to ride with my older brother as he will be
> leaving in 8 days for his cross country Harley Davidson trip to our family
> in California. Below is my hell with brake bleeding.
>
> I decided to continue bleeding with the "oh so shitty" Mityvac bleeder
> device as the brakes were hard but went to the floor after holding for
> longer periods of time. I cleaned the drums and all the rear parts with
> Brakcleen and was very happy with the results (I should be grateful for
> that), I kept getting air coming from the bleeder and hose to the Mityvac
> container which was sucking air and no clamp could control it on the
> drivers rear wheel cylinder but at least it was clear. Then I went to the
> passengers side rear, some air although not as much, then off to the
> passenger front caliper (yes upgraded disc's when I got Pinky in 2006) and
> it seemed nice and air free then to the drivers front caliper. When I was
> done with the messy job with continuous filling of the MC I still didn't
> have a firm peddle and somewhat less firm that before I started, (yes don't
> fix what is not broken).
>
> I went to the store got new hose 1/4" clear as I suspected my hose would
> not keep a seal to the container or the brake nipple. I decided to bleed
> the way I was successful with the VW bus, a tube in a jar of fluid push
> peddle hold peddle with a 3/4" dowel and then shut off the nipple. It was a
> sloppy nightmare as I saw fluid trickle from the drivers wheel cylinder
> which now I know was bad too so that I should be grateful for. I was unable
> to get the massive amounts of air out of the line now and have a very
> squishy peddle.
>
> I cleaned everything up after returning to using the stupid Mityvac again
> and now I can't get the drum on the shitty drivers rear wheel as the pads
> aren't lining up to get the drum on it. Note: I had to use a wheel puller
> to remove the drum (with now leaky cylinder) in the first place. After
> tapping with my lead hammer on the ads to get some kind of alignment to get
> the drum on the spring popped out (long spring has a spring coil on ether
> side and length of of rod separating both half's). I got so fed up last
> night I just cleaned up and hope for some advice.
>
> Questions:
> 1. Can I remove the drum pads from the shitty wheel and put the drum back
> on then the rear wheel so I can push the car without breaking anything?
> I'll assume yes.
>
> 2. Can I assume the only way I can get the car to move to the street under
> it own power and brakes is to try and buy a rear wheel cylinder locally
> fast to replace the leaker as a temporary fix while waiting for the good
> parts from Gerard then I can get my LBC into the garage and work through
> the night when the parts arrive, and get that bike out too.
>
> 3. Was I supposed to leave the master cylinder cap off when bleeding or
> put it back on during the bleeding procedure?
>
> Thanks guys for all your continued support I really want to succeed with
> this on my own and most importantly understand my LBC.
> Linda
> 62 California Sprite w/front discs "Pinky"
>
>
>
> --
> "Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
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-- 
"Pay if forward" in honor of Frank Clarici III, Spritenut
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