[Spridgets] 1960 disc brakes Bugere

[GUY DAY]

Many will already know what is written below so apologies to those, it may be helpful for those who haven't come across a brake shuttle valve before.  This is a brake shuttle valve and CosmicMag1380 has posted an excellent link to show what it is.  Do not confuse it with numbers 51 and 46 which are the brake light switch and holder.  I do not believe it was fitted to all drum brake motors.  It has one in port from the m/cylinder and 3 out ports, one to rear brakes, one each to the front brakes on either side and a warning light switch fitting at the front.  Inside this device is a sliding shuttle, in everyday use it is held in the middle with 'O' rings.  It's function is to leave you with some braking in the event a brake line fails by sliding the shuttle sideways across to block off the failed brake line.  In the event of a poorly adjusted or maintained braking system you may well have to pump your brakes to get a pedal but at least you will have something as opposed to nothing.  You can trigger them when bleeding brakes if you are being particularly hard on the brake pedal as the shuttle will slide across the to side with air in the system and you have to pull it to pieces to reset it.  It is frequently a neglected part of the braking system with seal replacement ignored when servicing.  It can freeze in the working position and become redundant in the event of a brake line failure.Getting hold of a new one of these devices is difficult.  Whilst shown on many part suppliers pages it may well not be a feature in their stock trays.You can live without one and just use a brake pipe union to send the fluid to each of the the fronts and rear and many who don't care about a brake failure do just that.  However, it is and can be a safety device that is effective when working properly on this era of vehicle.  Having suffered brake failures in vehicles with and without these devices, I would rather go and a have a working one fitted.
Guy R Day
 

    On Monday, 28 March 2016, 7:24, CosmicMag1380 via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
 

 I may be wrong on the nomenclature but if you look at #48 on the Moss diagram, that is what I am talking about. 
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29302
The earlier cars with disk brakes had a single M/C and no shuttle valve in the proportioning valve. Depending on what Jim F. has to work with, he may need to know that there is a difference between the early and late disk brake systems.
In a sense the name proportional valve appears to be correct as the influx of hydraulic pressure enters the union and is distributed equally among the four lines running to the four corners of the car.
My 2c...

On Sun, Mar 27, 2016 at 5:29 AM, Rick Fisk <refisk at chartermi.net> wrote:

But it isn't a proportioning valve.  It's simply a device that tells you if the front and/or rear brakes have a leak.  I like the way it tells you AFTER you step on the pedal and it goes to the floor that you have a problem.  Duh.  :-)
There was a thread (sorry Jay) a few days ago on another forum about removing the valve altogether to eliminate a possible leak.  You still run separate front and rear lines but just eliminate the next to worthless warning light shuttle valve.    

Sent from my keyboard
On Mar 26, 2016, at 10:50 PM, CosmicMag1380 via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:


Bear in mind that the later cars, 68 and up, had a dual master cylinder on the brake system. If you go that route, it is a good idea to change out the proportioning valve as well so that you have the redundant system...The later valves have a shuttle valve in them to allow for brakes on 2 wheels in the event of a leak. Gerard can bring you up to speed on this and likely can supply the parts. 

On Fri, Mar 25, 2016 at 3:30 PM, Jim f <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi all,
 i'm finally getting back on my 1960 bugeye, ive got a new 1275 ready and now i want to upgrade the front brakes to discs, can someone tell what year mg midget donors do i needf,or this swap?, and are there any other issues i should be aware of, or is it a direct bolt on conversion, Thank You Jim F.
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