[Spridgets] Observations and impressions for bleeding the 1500 clutch system

[Richard Ball]

Thanks for all the input on this.  Some have novel approaches such as removing
the slave, removing the master, reverse flow, remote bleeder, Chanting,
etc...

Now that I have experienced the problem and theorized the process I still
think the pressure bleed is the way to go as far as forcing air out.  It is a
simple solution that does not require removing parts.  Reverse bleeding would
be similar.  I think I might look into adding a remote bleed like Steve
mentioned in the future to keep from having to get under the car.

Thanks again for the input.

Rich Ball
'76 Midget
Everett, WA
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Steve Christiansen
  To: Richard Ball ; spridgets at autox.team.net
  Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 9:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Observations and impressions for bleeding the 1500
clutch system


  Rich,

  I know of this problem.  It is the same problem Triumph has had since day
one with all of the Spitfire, GT6 and Herald.  The cure for bleeding a clutch
is very easy.  I sell a remote bleeder kit for the Midgets and Spitfires. This
makes bleeding a one man process and less than a ten minute job.  Bleeding can
be done without jacking up the car.

  Steve Christiansen
  Ol Phartz Partz
  714-686-1236
  www.olphartz.com
  schris51 at att.net






-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  From: Richard Ball <rich_ball at mindspring.com>
  To: spridgets at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 4:10 PM
  Subject: [Spridgets] Observations and impressions for bleeding the 1500
clutch system


  Observations and impressions for bleeding the 1500 clutch system



  There have been a few threads posted to the forums recently on problems
  bleeding the 1500 Midget's Hydraulic clutch system.  Since I just recently
had
  similar issues I thought I would post my observations, impressions and
  solutions.



  A few weeks ago I went out to take the Midget for a spin up to the store
and
  was greeted by a non functioning clutch pedal.  After investigating a bit I
  came to the conclusion that the slave cylinder had finally given out on me.
I
  ordered an original Lockheed rebuild kit from Peter C., did a light honing
  pass to clean it up and rebuilt it.  After getting everything back in and
  buttoned up I called for my lovely assistant Susan (wife) and we set about
  trying to bleed it.  Trying is the key here. We spent an hour plus and at
  least a pint of LMA trying to get it working with no luck.



  I see two areas in the system that contribute to problems bleeding in the
  traditional way.



  The first problem I needed to over come was the air that was trapped in the
  arch of the line connecting the master to the slave.  On the 1500 the line
is
  a transparent tube that arches up before heading down to the slave.  The
  problem I was having was that the volume of fluid being sent through the
line
  was not sufficient to move the air down the vertical rise.  The air bubble
  would slide up past the fluid and back to the high point of the arch.  Phil
  Jones came to my aid here by loaning me his Eezibleed system.  This
  pressurized bleeder worked great and was able to move enough fluid under
  pressure to move the air bubble out of the line.  Unfortunately it took up
  residence in the slave cylinder.



  The second problem I came across has to do with the bleed valve on the
slave.
  First off it is located slightly below the high point of the cylinder so
any
  trapped air can not flow out easily even with the rear of the car raised
above
  the front.  Adding to this is the limited space to rotate a wrench placed
on
  the bleed valve.  You're only able to open the bleed valve a slight amount
to
  release the fluid with a flair nut wrench and hose on the bleed valve.
This
  low flow was not enough to force the air out of the slave.  What I found
  worked well was to use a 7/16 box wrench that could slide off over a hose
on
  the bleed valve so I could reposition the wrench and rotated it again
several
  times. This allowed me to open the valve much wider.  This in combination
with
  the pressure of the Eezibleed to move the fluid cleared all the air that
was
  still trapped in the slave.



  From my experience the most successful way to bleed the clutch on the 1500
  Midget is to have a high fluid flow rate so the air in the system gets
caught
  up with the fluid flow and pulled out along with it.



  Sorry if this was long winded, but I thought it might be useful to others
that
  are having the same problem.



  Rich Ball

  '76 Midget
  ------------------------

  spridgets at autox.team.net

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