[Spridgets] 1274 Sump replacement....

[Peter C]

I agree with Bob, except I don't trim the cork, or I use the newly 
supplied rubber. Also, I use a small jack to hold the pan tight to 
the block. Of course I am lying on my back. Maybe if I had a lift I'd 
do it differently. Some folks invert the pan on the workbench with 
the gaskets glued on and lots of weight on it overnight.
         Peter C.
====
At 11:41 PM 8/4/2008, Kitterer Bob wrote:
>Dave,
>
>Yes the sump can be replaced from underneath - do not have to pull,
>mover or other wise reposition the engine.  A 7/16 socket with a long
>extension makes for a quick and easy job.  The last time I did this
>the half circles were cork, maybe still are.  Anyway what worked for
>me was to press them into the slot on the pan then cut them with
>about a 1/8 inch over size on both sides.  This makes it a little
>harder to get the bolts started but compresses the cork for a good seal.
>
>Bob Kitterer
>
>1960 Austin Healey Sprite (Mk IV in disguise)
>1966 Austin Healey Sprite Mk III (Trevor) - still in boxes
>2000 Miata Special Edition
>
>
>
>
>On Aug 4, 2008, at 9:30 PM, Dave G. wrote:
>
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > A question about the sump...
> >
> > I would like to replace the sump on The Beast.... it's been badly
> > bashed in
> > underneath! --- asper usual !!
> > I do have what I think is a fair condition replacement sump...
> > Here's the question(s)...
> > Can this be done from underneath without pulling the engine?
> > What do I do with the semi-circular cut-outs at the front and back
> > of the
> > sump?
> > I know they are for oil seals but is there a special trick to make
> > sure they
> > don't leak when I fit them?
> > I don't want to be another Exxon Valdez...
> >
> > Any other "hints and kinks" for doing this???
> >
> > TIA...
> > --
> > Dave G.   KK7SS
> > '65 MK III Sprite in Richland, WA
> >
> > The Original Point and Click  --- Smith and Wesson....
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