[Spridgets] Slave Cylinder

[Bob Spruck]

Below is a copy of a tech tip I wrote for the MGVR Newsletter that describes my
solution for the problem on a stock unit. Although I don't know the details on
the 5-speed, I would guess this ides would work just like it does on the stock
application. I have digital photos that go with the article that I will send to
anyone who asks off-list.





MODIFY THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER FOR EASIER INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL

By Bob Spruck
      MotorMouth/south


Those of us who do most of the work on our race cars ourselves, have gotten
used to the fact that we have to pull the engine fairly frequently. Maybe once
a year, hopefully not more. (If you have to remove the engine that often,
perhaps you shouldn't be working on your race car yourself!) Anyway, I've got
it down to a science, especially after sixteen years racing the same 1967
Midget and having a 1972 street/show Midget to work on as well, not to mention
all my friends with Bugeyes and Spridgets who invite me to work on their cars,
too. Ive done a number of modifications to make engine removal and
reinstallation quick, easy, safe, and relatively painless. Ive slotted the
engine mounting brackets, pinned the intake manifold, welded nuts on the
radiator brackets so I dont have to fiddle with inaccessible hardware, done
the same with the starter bolts, cut an access hole in the floor pan so I can
insert the spline on the front of the drive shaft into the transmission, and
made a permanent ground strap on the rear transmission mounting bracket, just
to name a few. One of the tasks that I dont look forward to in the otherwise
simple and quick engine removal/installation routine is removing and installing
the clutch slave cylinder.

The cotter pin, clevis, and clevis pin that attach the cylinder to the throw
out bearing arm are easy to get to. I even replaced the cotter pin with a
hairpin to make things easier. Its those two darn bolts that attach the slave
cylinder to the transmission housing that are the problem. Actually, its
really only the top one, as the bottom one is easy to get to from underneath
the car. The top bolt is extremely close to the frame rail. You cant get a
socket and ratchet on it. You can get to it with an open-end or box end wrench
but you can only turn it a flat or two at a time. There is an opening in the
passenger foot well that is designed to allow access to that one bolt. Trouble
is, my passenger foot well is filled with the Accusump and the fire system and
all their plumbing. So, that access hole is no longer accessible. That means
that the slave cylinder has to be removed from underneath the car. Those two
bolts are rather hefty, because of the force exerted on the clutch by hydraulic
pressure. One trick I had used for many years was to use a shorter upper bolt
so that I didnt have to turn it in or out so much. This made the task a little
easier, but it was still a pain. I eventually found what I hope is the best
solution. 

I cut off the hex head of the bolt, making it into a very large pin. I ground
the end smooth, applied Locktite, and screwed the bolt into the transmission
case so only the smooth shoulder is exposed. The upper ear on the slave
cylinder slides over the pin and the more accessible lower bolt goes through
the lower ear in the normal fashion and holds the cylinder against the case.
The motion imparted by the hydraulic system is fore and aft. When the piston in
the cylinder moves the pin, the pin moves the arm, and the arm moves the throw
out bearing against the pressure plate. The shoulder on the upper headless bolt
and the normal lower bolt prevent fore and aft movement of the cylinder body
relative to the transmission case. The head on the bottom bolt holds the
cylinder against the case. All is well.

Now only the easily accessible lower bolt needs to be unscrewed in order to
remove the slave cylinder. The headless upper bolt stays in place on the
transmission case. To replace the cylinder all you have to do is just position
it on the upper pin and screw in the lower bolt. 

At 10:28 AM 10/4/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>Anybody had to replace the slave cylinder on Paul's 5 speed conversion
>with the engine and trans in the car?  I have a leak in this area of my
>Bugeye of fresh brake fluid.  It may or may not be the slave cylinder. 
>Might just be the line going in or the bleed extension I installed to aid
>bleeding.  If it is the slave cylinder it looks like the upper 9/16ths
>bolt holding the slave is very close to the frame rail.  Anyone done this?
>Mike MacLean
>60 Sprite
>56 BN2
>_______________________________________________
>mgmaven at bellsouth.net
>
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Bob Spruck
MGMaven
Sharpsburg, GA
67 Midget Vintage Racer
72 Midget Street and Show
6 parts/project cars