[Spits] Cutting spot welds

[Phil Cleobury]

Drill (or use spot wield remover if your wealthy) same size as spot on 
each spot to weaken spot, (only through first piece of sheet metal) -
Air chisel in the gap of the two sheets use split end chisel - keep it 
sharp as it does some cutting - mainly used as a wedge to separate the 
pannals...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Air%20Tools-_-Air%20Hammers-_-1540331&ci_sku=1540331&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword} 
<http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200342899_200342899?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Air%20Tools-_-Air%20Hammers-_-1540331&ci_sku=1540331&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw=%7Bkeyword%7D> 
- bent back old sheet as you go along to minimize distortion of original 
panel - old sheet pops off easily
Repair flatten flanges of old sheet metal 
http://www.eastwood.com/7-pc-body-and-fender-pro-set-fiberglass-handles.html
Clean up whats left of old spot wields on origional under sheet metal 
with grinder with sand disk (not grinding wheel) shiny metal finish 
where spot are to be ("earth" for easy mig  wielding)
Remove surface rust/contamination - clean up original panels
Paint inside of new and old panels  with Por15 or Wield through primer
Add spot holes in new sheet (approx 3 inches  - 5 inches apart) with 
drill and wood block behind for support (can create distortion) or metal 
joggler http://www.minimag.co.uk/2010/08/16/on-test-jogglers/
Clean paint off around spot wield holes with sanding disk (if using 
por15 - should wield if using wield through primer) or
Touch drill through spot wields for earthing purposes
Secure Replacement panel in place with sheet metal screws having used a 
small drill to allow thread to take or use holes that accidentally got 
drilled right through! - in at least 20% of holes and/or use mole grips 
to prevent movement or distortion due to heat when wielding
Ensure two sheets are CLOSE together to prevent bad wield - use body 
work hammer dollies 
http://www.eastwood.com/7-pc-body-and-fender-pro-set-fiberglass-handles.html
Plug wield with Mig wielder - high wire feed/high amperage/short burst 
to fill hole - to not blow away metal/slightly further distance from 
material than normal seam wielding
Fettle clean up excess wield from pulging - if you get it right this is 
minimal - amount of time of wielding and earthing are critical


On 8/3/2012 10:12 AM, M D Nugent wrote:
> I bought several HF spot weld cutters (already had a couple from Eastwood),
> but my genius moment was when I hired a kid at $10/hour to drill the suckers
> out while I worked on something easier and more interesting!
>
>
> Both the
> Eastwood and HF cutters wore down pretty fast, BTW - I couldn't tell any
> difference in quality.
>
> As to removing the little circles left behind, I
> sacrified an old wood chisel - most of them popped off without much
> resistance.
>
>   
> M D "Doc" Nugent - www.carcentric.com
> Seattle area
> ________________________________
>   From: Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com>
> To:
> Shop-Talk <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>; Spitfire Group
> <spitfires at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 7:38 AM
> Subject:
> [Spits] Cutting spot welds
>   
> Hello,
>
> I'm replacing the lower rear valence
> panel on my Spit, because it was
> bashed up
> years ago, and crudely repaired
> with bondo.  I've been using a cheap HF
> spot-weld
> drill bit to separate the
> spot welds, and that is going faster than I
> expected, especially
> since the
> Spitfire sheet metal is so thin.
>
> But does anybody know the best way to grind
> down those little discs of
> metal that
> the drill leaves behind?  (My drill bit
> is like a little hole-cutter.)  I
> need to grind them flush, without
> cutting
> too deeply into the second, remaining panel.
>
> BTW, I'll probably spring for a
> HF electric spot-welder to attach the new
> panel.
>
> Thanks again,
> Doug
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