[Spits] Cutting spot welds

[Daniel Parrott]

I also used HF and Eastwood spot weld cutters.  As the points wore down, I
refreshed the points with a grinder.


Dan Parrott
Savannah, Georgia
1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ", AKA "Rat"
1973/1978 Spit Six "Joseph"
1957 Chevy Belair "Mayflower"




-----Original Message-----
From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of M D Nugent
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 10:13 AM
To: Doug Braun; Shop-Talk; Spitfire Group
Subject: Re: [Spits] Cutting spot welds

I bought several HF spot weld cutters (already had a couple from Eastwood),
but my genius moment was when I hired a kid at $10/hour to drill the suckers
out while I worked on something easier and more interesting!  


Both the
Eastwood and HF cutters wore down pretty fast, BTW - I couldn't tell any
difference in quality.

As to removing the little circles left behind, I sacrified an old wood
chisel - most of them popped off without much resistance.

 
M D "Doc" Nugent - www.carcentric.com
Seattle area
________________________________
 From: Doug Braun <doug at dougbraun.com>
To:
Shop-Talk <Shop-talk at autox.team.net>; Spitfire Group
<spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 7:38 AM
Subject:
[Spits] Cutting spot welds
 
Hello,

I'm replacing the lower rear valence
panel on my Spit, because it was
bashed up
years ago, and crudely repaired
with bondo.  I've been using a cheap HF
spot-weld
drill bit to separate the
spot welds, and that is going faster than I expected, especially since the
Spitfire sheet metal is so thin.

But does anybody know the best way to grind down those little discs of metal
that the drill leaves behind?  (My drill bit is like a little hole-cutter.)
I need to grind them flush, without cutting too deeply into the second,
remaining panel.

BTW, I'll probably spring for a
HF electric spot-welder to attach the new panel.

Thanks again,
Doug
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