[Shop-talk] New engine for a Honda? RESOLUTION (AI Prompt and response.)

[Moose]

A few people here emailed me about what I asked AI and what it gave me. 
Here is the actually prompt and respond from ChatGPT.  (Yes. It's this 
long.)


My prompt (changed to the first person.)

I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV engine. The problem, 
about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine light came on. I got the 
codes and it was coming on the evap leak. Then 2 days ago, the oil light 
comes on. Check the oil, the stick is dry! I put some oil in (it takes 3 
qts to come up to full.) I check the oil the next morning. A qt low. I 
take it out for a short ride. No blue smoke under load, no white smoke. 
Very faint smell of burning oil. No leaks anywhere. For a last hope, I 
check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe it's just an erg 
valve. No oil. 8>( So, car is burning oil. My questions are... Is there 
anything else I can check? (Note, I don't think I'll see a problem with 
compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylinders, right?) 
Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm not that 
well versed on Hondas.) Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured 
engine? 

It's response...(btw, I call the AI, "Chatty")  8>)  Images aren't 
included.

Chatty here, Sir — let’s walk through this logically and figure out what’s 
going on with that old-warhorse Accord.

✅ What You’re Describing
Major oil consumption (3 quarts + another quart by the next morning)
No visible blue smoke
No leaks
Faint burning-oil smell
EVAP leak codes / SRS light (not SR5)
Given the mileage a 2000 Honda Accord likely has by now, this is classic 
oil control ring wear or valve stem seal failure, but let’s break down 
everything you can still check before assuming the worst.

🔍 1. Things You CAN Check Before Engine Work
✔ A. PCV Valve
This is the cheapest “maybe” solution. A stuck PCV valve can cause massive 
oil consumption without smoke.
Pull PCV valve off and shake it.
Should rattle sharply.
If mushy, gummed, or oily → replace it (about $10).
Inspect PCV hose for heavy oil coating.
If the PCV is stuck open, the engine can ingest oil from the crankcase in 
surprising amounts.

✔ B. Compression Test + Leak-Down Test
You’re right that a dry compression test can be “masked” by oil, but:
Dry + Wet compression comparison:
If dry compression is low and wet compression jumps way up → rings.
If both are low → valves.
If both are decent → likely valve stem seals or PCV ingestion.
Leak-down test is even better:
Air at intake → intake valves
Air at exhaust → exhaust valves
Air at oil filler → rings
Air at PCV port → rings or excessive blow-by
This test will tell you if the rings are toast.

✔ C. Spark Plug Inspection
Pull all 4 plugs and inspect:
Wet with oil? → oil control rings
Ashy white crust on one cylinder? → valve stem seals
One cylinder much worse? → localized issue (seal or ring)

✔ D. Cold Start Puff Test
Valve stem seals often cause:
A blue puff only on cold start
Then it clears up while driving
Have someone watch the tailpipe at first start.

🔧 2. Are the EVAP Codes Related?
No.
Oil consumption will not trigger EVAP system codes. Those come from:
loose gas cap
failed EVAP purge valve
failed EVAP vent valve
rotted charcoal canister
vacuum leaks in the EVAP lines
Totally separate systems.

🧠 3. So What’s the Most Likely Cause?
Based on:
High oil consumption
No visible blue smoke
No leaks
Faint burning smell
The top two suspects are:
#1 — Worn oil control rings (most common on this engine by 200k+ mi)
These won’t always produce blue smoke until it's extremely bad. Oil can 
burn “cleanly” enough that you don’t see obvious smoke.
#2 — Valve stem seals
Classic for Hondas of this age.
Often, both are worn.

🔨 4. Ring Job vs. Remanufactured Engine
▶ Ring job pros:
Cheaper parts
Keeps your original engine
▶ Ring job cons:
Labor-intensive
If cylinders are out-of-round or worn → you'll still have problems
Head should be rebuilt at same time (more cost)
You’re realistically looking at $1500–$2500 for a proper top/bottom 
refresh.

▶ Remanufactured engine pros:
Entire engine returned to factory spec
Often 3-year warranty
Includes new seals, bearings, rings, and refreshed head
▶ Remanufactured engine cons:
More expensive up front
Must trust the rebuilder
Expect $2500–$4000 installed, depending on shop.

💡 My Recommendation
If you plan to keep the car long-term:
👉 Remanufactured engine is the better investment.
If you just need another year out of it:
👉 Try PCV valve, then thicker oil (10W-30 or 10W-40), and monitor 
consumption.

📌 Summary / Actionable Steps
1.      Check/replace PCV valve
2.      Do a dry + wet compression test
3.      Do a leak-down test
4.      Inspect spark plugs
5.      Watch cold start for blue puff
6.      Decide:
If rings → reman engine if you plan to keep the car
If only valve seals → head rebuild is cheaper

If you'd like, Sir, I can help you interpret compression/leak-down results 
or help you find reputable reman engine suppliers.



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