<font size=2 face="sans-serif">A few people here emailed me about what
I asked AI and what it gave me. Here is the actually prompt and respond
from ChatGPT. (Yes. It's this long.)</font>
<br>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">My prompt (changed to the first person.)</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3>I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX with a 2.3L I4 F OHV engine.
The problem, about a month or so ago the SR5 and check engine light came
on. I got the codes and it was coming on the evap leak. Then 2 days ago,
the oil light comes on. Check the oil, the stick is dry! I put some oil
in (it takes 3 qts to come up to full.) I check the oil the next morning.
A qt low. I take it out for a short ride. No blue smoke under load, no
white smoke. Very faint smell of burning oil. No leaks anywhere. For a
last hope, I check the intake hoping to find oil in it and maybe it's just
an erg valve. No oil. 8>( So, car is burning oil. My questions are...
Is there anything else I can check? (Note, I don't think I'll see a problem
with compression testing as the oil can still 'seal up' the cylinders,
right?) Could this be related to the codes? (I don't believe so, but I'm
not that well versed on Hondas.) Would a ring job be better than a re-manufactured
engine? </font>
<br>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">It's response...(btw, I call the AI,
"Chatty") 8>) Images aren't included.</font>
<br>
<br><font size=3>Chatty here, Sir — let’s walk through this logically
and figure out what’s going on with that old-warhorse Accord.</font>
<p>
<hr>
<br><font size=6><b>✅ What You’re Describing</b></font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3><b>Major oil consumption</b> (3 quarts + another quart
by the next morning)</font>
<li><font size=3><b>No visible blue smoke</b></font>
<li><font size=3><b>No leaks</b></font>
<li><font size=3><b>Faint burning-oil smell</b></font>
<li><font size=3><b>EVAP leak codes / SRS light (not SR5)</b></font></ul><font size=3>Given
the mileage a 2000 Honda Accord likely has by now, this is classic <b>oil
control ring wear</b> or <b>valve stem seal</b> failure, but let’s break
down everything you <i>can</i> still check before assuming the worst.</font>
<p>
<hr>
<br><font size=6><b>🔍 1. Things You CAN Check Before Engine Work</b></font>
<br><font size=5><b>✔ A. PCV Valve</b></font>
<p><font size=3>This is the cheapest “maybe” solution. A stuck PCV valve
can cause massive oil consumption <b>without smoke</b>.</font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3>Pull PCV valve off and shake it.</font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3>Should rattle sharply.</font>
<li><font size=3>If mushy, gummed, or oily → replace it (about $10).</font></ul>
<li><font size=3>Inspect PCV hose for heavy oil coating.</font></ul><font size=3>If
the PCV is stuck open, the engine can ingest oil from the crankcase in
surprising amounts.</font>
<p>
<hr>
<br><font size=5><b>✔ B. Compression Test + Leak-Down Test</b></font>
<p><font size=3>You’re right that a <i>dry</i> compression test can be
“masked” by oil, but:</font>
<p><font size=4><b>Dry + Wet compression comparison:</b></font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3><b>If dry compression is low and wet compression jumps
way up → rings.</b></font>
<li><font size=3><b>If both are low → valves.</b></font>
<li><font size=3><b>If both are decent → likely valve stem seals or PCV
ingestion.</b></font></ul><font size=4><b>Leak-down test is even better:</b></font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3>Air at <b>intake</b> → intake valves</font>
<li><font size=3>Air at <b>exhaust</b> → exhaust valves</font>
<li><font size=3>Air at <b>oil filler</b> → rings</font>
<li><font size=3>Air at <b>PCV port</b> → rings or excessive blow-by</font></ul><font size=3>This
test <i>will</i> tell you if the rings are toast.</font>
<p>
<hr>
<br><font size=5><b>✔ C. Spark Plug Inspection</b></font>
<p><font size=3>Pull all 4 plugs and inspect:</font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3><b>Wet with oil?</b> → oil control rings</font>
<li><font size=3><b>Ashy white crust on one cylinder?</b> → valve stem
seals</font>
<li><font size=3><b>One cylinder much worse?</b> → localized issue (seal
or ring)</font></ul>
<hr>
<br><font size=5><b>✔ D. Cold Start Puff Test</b></font>
<p><font size=3>Valve stem seals often cause:</font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3><b>A blue puff only on cold start</b></font>
<li><font size=3>Then it clears up while driving</font></ul><font size=3>Have
someone watch the tailpipe at first start.</font>
<p>
<hr>
<br><font size=6><b>🔧 2. Are the EVAP Codes Related?</b></font>
<p><font size=3><b>No.</b><br>
Oil consumption will <i>not</i> trigger EVAP system codes. Those come from:</font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3>loose gas cap</font>
<li><font size=3>failed EVAP purge valve</font>
<li><font size=3>failed EVAP vent valve</font>
<li><font size=3>rotted charcoal canister</font>
<li><font size=3>vacuum leaks in the EVAP lines</font></ul><font size=3>Totally
separate systems.</font>
<p>
<hr>
<br><font size=6><b>🧠 3. So What’s the Most Likely Cause?</b></font>
<p><font size=3>Based on:</font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3>High oil consumption</font>
<li><font size=3>No visible blue smoke</font>
<li><font size=3>No leaks</font>
<li><font size=3>Faint burning smell</font></ul><font size=3><b>The top
two suspects are:</b></font>
<p><font size=4><b>#1 — Worn oil control rings (most common on this engine
by 200k+ mi)</b></font>
<p><font size=3>These won’t always produce blue smoke until it's extremely
bad. Oil can burn “cleanly” enough that you don’t see obvious smoke.</font>
<p><font size=4><b>#2 — Valve stem seals</b></font>
<p><font size=3>Classic for Hondas of this age.</font>
<p><font size=3>Often, both are worn.</font>
<p>
<hr>
<br><font size=6><b>🔨 4. Ring Job vs. Remanufactured Engine</b></font>
<br><font size=4><b>▶ Ring job pros:</b></font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3>Cheaper parts</font>
<li><font size=3>Keeps your original engine</font></ul><font size=4><b>▶
Ring job cons:</b></font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3>Labor-intensive</font>
<li><font size=3>If cylinders are out-of-round or worn → you'll still
have problems</font>
<li><font size=3>Head should be rebuilt at same time (more cost)</font></ul><font size=3>You’re
realistically looking at <b>$1500–$2500</b> for a proper top/bottom refresh.</font>
<p>
<hr>
<br><font size=4><b>▶ Remanufactured engine pros:</b></font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3>Entire engine returned to factory spec</font>
<li><font size=3>Often 3-year warranty</font>
<li><font size=3>Includes new seals, bearings, rings, and refreshed head</font></ul><font size=4><b>▶
Remanufactured engine cons:</b></font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3>More expensive up front</font>
<li><font size=3>Must trust the rebuilder</font></ul><font size=3>Expect
<b>$2500–$4000 installed</b>, depending on shop.</font>
<p>
<hr>
<br><font size=5><b>💡 My Recommendation</b></font>
<p><font size=3>If you plan to keep the car long-term:</font>
<p><font size=3>👉 <b>Remanufactured engine is the better investment.</b></font>
<p><font size=3>If you just need another year out of it:</font>
<p><font size=3>👉 <b>Try PCV valve, then thicker oil (10W-30 or 10W-40),</b>
and monitor consumption.</font>
<p>
<hr>
<br><font size=6><b>📌 Summary / Actionable Steps</b></font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">1. </font><font size=3><b>Check/replace
PCV valve</b></font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">2. </font><font size=3><b>Do
a dry + wet compression test</b></font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">3. </font><font size=3><b>Do
a leak-down test</b></font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">4. </font><font size=3><b>Inspect
spark plugs</b></font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">5. </font><font size=3><b>Watch
cold start for blue puff</b></font>
<br><font size=2 face="sans-serif">6. </font><font size=3>Decide:</font>
<ul>
<li><font size=3>If rings → reman engine if you plan to keep the car</font>
<li><font size=3>If only valve seals → head rebuild is cheaper</font></ul>
<hr>
<p><font size=3>If you'd like, Sir, I can help you interpret compression/leak-down
results or help you find reputable reman engine suppliers.</font>
<p>
<p>
<p>