[Shop-talk] Making a door thinner
Brian Kemp
bk13 at earthlink.net
Sun Dec 22 13:05:03 MST 2019
I second the router guide shown in the video if you don't have a local
shop with a door sized industrial sander.
Brian
On 12/22/2019 10:08 AM, Miq Millman via Shop-talk wrote:
> I just did something similar: had a door that was too wide, so I used
> a router to make the hinge pockets 1/4" deeper then ran the door
> through my table saw and sliced a bit less than 3/16" of the hinge
> side and about 1/16" off the latch side.
>
> I think you can do something similar. Look up "router jig to flatten
> wood" and make a sled that is roughly 31" long and as wide as your
> (possibly new) router base. Woodworkers use this kind of rig for
> flattening live edge slabs and the like.
>
> Here's a good video that explains it and shows how to make it using
> some plywood and simple rails: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J0SDvKHcL5M
>
> Basically, you get a nice wide straight bit and set the jig on the
> door, then make passes cutting off 1/8" or less at a time. Make a
> pass, move the jig less than the diameter of the bit, make another
> pass, etc.
>
> You might not even need to finish the final surface with a plane, but
> here's a chance to get a nice jack plane, like the Stanley No. 62
> (Orange big box has them for ~$100).
>
> I've done this, for end grain cutting boards, where I used a 1x2"
> aluminum rectangle tube for the rails,
>
> --
> __
> Miq Millman miq at bigllama.com <mailto:miq at bigllama.com>
> Tualatin, OR Big Llama Productions
>
>
> On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 6:26 AM Jim Stone via Shop-talk
> <shop-talk at autox.team.net <mailto:shop-talk at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
> I am installing a barn door in my recently remodeled house and
> have come up with a problem I would like the group’s help with. I
> need to put up a pair of 8’ x 30" barn doors, one of which will
> slide in next to a tall kitchen cabinet. So, not exactly a pocket
> door, but it needs to fit into a pocket. When we
> designed/installed the kitchen cabinets we planned the cabinets
> for a 1 3/8” - 1 1/2” door, which I planned to make out of tongue
> and groove boards or possibly shiplap. However, my wife has
> lately decided that she doesn’t like the look of the board door
> and wants to try something different. I wanted to install
> something temporary while she shops and decides and we went to
> Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore yesterday to see if they had
> anything that would cheaply do the trick, at least for the
> holidays. To our surprise, they had a pair of new, really nice,
> 8x30 shaker style doors for $50 each that would look really good
> in the house. They are solid wood, I think poplar, and the only
> problem is that they are 1 3/4” thick. I bought them anyway,
> figuring I could always donate them back if there wasn’t a good
> way to make them work.
>
> There is a possibility that I might be able to make the doors work
> by tweaking the barn door hardware, as the opening is about 1
> 5/8”. I will try that, but doubt the wall tolerances are that
> precise. It it doesn’t work, my only option - besides re-donating
> the doors - is to try to narrow the doors a bit. This /should/ be
> possible, since the stiles and rails are 4” and 8”, respectively,
> so I am not talking about narrowing the entire width of the door.
> (For what it is worth, I should add here that while the doors are
> currently 8x30, I need to tweak that a bit to make the match the
> cabinets and door opening and will be cutting them down to about
> 84” x 29”.
>
> I currently have a good bench top planer that I can’t see anyway
> to use, and a cheap HF hand planer that might work. But, of
> course, I would be happy to buy a new one or another tool that
> would do the job. We are probably looking at more than $1000 for
> a pair of 8’ doors that make my wife happy, so there is lots of
> room in the budget for a new tool. So, what does the group
> think? Can I safely take about 1/8” off each face of these
> doors. Is an electric hand planer my best option, or is there
> another way? They will be painted in the end, so I can fill in
> any random gouges, but they do have to be smooth and even.
>
> As always, thanks for any advice and Happy Holidays to all!
>
> Jim
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