[Nobbc] THANKSGIVING RIDE

[Greg Tatarian]

  Clif,

Try JNW Engine http://jnweng.com/
Talk to Jerry and tell him Greg Tatarian with the Lotuses sent you. I 
put on a tech session at Jerry's shop last year for the NOBBC.

Not sure anyone's going to measure 10 microns - they are going to cut 
until the surface is smooth and flat, but you can ask him to go as 
lightly as possible. If it's just light surface rust, I would use a 
surface plate and 120-150 grit paper, myself, and save the $40  (at 
least for flywheels that have the friction surface level or raise above 
the surrounding portion).

Pros and cons of lightened steel vs. stock, vs. aluminum flywheels are 
generally not specific to any car make or model but are pretty uniform; 
lightened steel needs to be done properly or you can have it fly apart 
on you at high revs. Stock is fine, but heavy. Aluminum flywheels have 
to have the right design and treatment for the aluminum so that the 
steel flywheel face and surrounding aluminum material expand and 
contract much as a unit, and so the aluminum isn't too soft, and the 
replaceable steel insert has to be available for future replacements. 
Some don't like alu because it affects apparent torque, particularly 
with small, light motors coming off the line. Some poorly designed or 
made units have had problems with ring gear coming off (same problem of 
differential expansion rates, as well as different pinning methods). 
Lighter flywheels definitely make the motor more throttle responsive. 
Don't forget to check the tooth bevel of the ring gear on the new f/w 
matches the engagement of your starter (front or back), as we talked 
about in Napa.

Cheers,
Greg






On 11/18/2010 11:36 PM, Clif & Deborah Williamson wrote:
>  Does anybody know a good shop for this operation?  I think 10 microns 
> is required.
> Thank,
> Clif  74 JH