[Morgans] Seat back pattern

Tcherek Kamstra tkamstra at sonic.net
Wed Oct 17 21:59:08 MDT 2018


Not sure if this is relevant, however Morgan still makes interior trim kits for older Morgans. Recently had one made for a 1966 Plus 4, including seat squabs etc.

Best,

Tcherek




> On Oct 17, 2018, at 8:23 AM, wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
> John,
> Yes!  This is the one I remember, shame on me for not looking in the team.net <http://team.net/> archives.  I do watch Norm Abrams and am reasonable talented in woodworking so I will give it a try.  Only that his starting width of 44” does not relate to the overall inside width of the cab, mine is only 41-7/8” I.D. and I am unclear as to how much of a gap I should start with, think about 1-1/2” on each side.
>  
> Then when he get to the ‘reuse your springs from the old backrest”  he has lost me as I have no backrest.  I will probably go contoured foam at this point.
>  
> All the best,
> Bill
>  
> From: John T. Blair [mailto:jblair1948 at cox.net <mailto:jblair1948 at cox.net>] 
> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2018 10:40 PM
> To: wbeech <wbeech at flash.net <mailto:wbeech at flash.net>>
> Cc: morgans at autox.team.net <mailto:morgans at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Morgans] Seat back pattern
>  
> At 02:14 PM 10/16/2018, wbeech wrote:
> 
> >OK, I’ll contribute to the list with my current challenge, a 1954 Plus Four.  Re-
> >building a basket case without benefit of being the one that disassembled it.  Car 
> >has no interior at all, making the seat bases is no problem but I am trying to re-
> >construct the seat back, have been working on making a pattern via the cut-n-fit-
> >n-cutsomemore method but not real sure just how the back rides on the side sills 
> >and sits against the chassis cross member for bracing.  Somewhere on the web, 
> >not GoMog, I found a good tutorial with pictures of the way the back board was 
> >configured to accept the foam to give the proper contours, but now I cannot find 
> >it.    .....
> 
> Bill,
> 
> While this probably isn't the item you were looking for, here is some info I received
> some time back.  I want to get it up on SOL's Morgan Web page, but haven't had
> the chance.
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> From: "Jeff Webster" <carfindr at tiac.net <mailto:carfindr at tiac.net>>
> To: <Morgans at autox.team.net <mailto:Morgans at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: RE: Roadster seat backrest (rebuild).
> Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 14:01:31 -0400
> 
> Dear All,
> I thought I'd post this letter so it may end up in the archives. Here is
> some valuable information regarding the bench seat back rest of an early
> 'high-cowl' roadster. This information may also be useful to those with the
> low body style.
> I have had the opportunity to remove the leather coverings from my roadster
> backrest as I had intended on replacing the wooden part as mine had rotted
> (not to mention the leather). The idea was to have a new wood backrest made
> and ready to go when I took it to the upholsterer.
> WELL, This was not to be. THE BACKREST IS A COMPLICATED AFFAIR.
> It is not something that can be made out of a sheet of half inch plywood,
> and I'll tell you why.
> Firstly, the original is made up from four different shaped/sized pieces of
> wood, it has 19 springs (9 large ones and 10 small) that are attached in
> different areas of the back. Moreover some are bent in such a way to give
> that great "old sofa" look to the backrest when it is in the car.
> I would STRONGLY suggest that if your back rest is shot, you either replace
> it with bucket seats or look for a good used back rest at a swap meet.
> 
> However, If you watch Norm Abrams regularly and you are either desperate or
> brave enough to attempt to make a replica - here are the measurements and
> materials you will need.
> Begin with a piece of quarter inch Luan board. It should measure 44'" Wide
> by 21 & 3/4" deep.
> Measuring from left to right, (along the long side) move the tape in 1 &
> 1/2" from the left side and make a mark. Then, from that mark, measure 41"
> (this accomodates the notch either side at the top of the back rest,  for
> the hood frame.) This notch extends down from the top, 4 & 1/4" each side in
> a slight curve.
> The overall depth of the backrest is 21 & 3/4". Having marked for the notch
> at the top, measure from the very top of the backrest down the right side 17
> &1/2" and make a mark. (You will now begin to mark the bottom cut out, where
> it bridges the leaf springs and sits on the sills). Measure in 4", down 1 &
> 1/2", then in 3", and down 2" to the bottom of the backrest. The total width
> of this notch should be 7 & 1/2".  Now, measure in from the right side edge
> (not from the notch) 19" and put a mark.
> Mirror the above measurements for the two notches on the left side of the
> back.
> At the bottom, in the middle you should end up with two marks about 6"
> apart, this is where the cut out will be for the prop shaft tunnel. It
> should be about 6 & 1/2" high, but it tapers. The best thing to do is set
> your prop shaft tunnel on the back rest and use it as a template, you'll get
> a much more accurate cut, but remember not to make it taller than 7".
> At this stage you should not have made any cuts - everything should just be
> marked though on the Luan board.
> The next step is to take some 1/2" x 3" stock. (you could use 1/2" ply cut
> 3" wide). You will need two pieces 38 1/2" long for the top rail and the
> upper base rail, two pieces 22" long for the side rails, one piece 12" long
> for the center rail, one piece cut 7" wide x 38 & 1/2" long for the lower
> base rail.
> Now, turn your Luan back rest over on the floor so that the markings you
> made earlier are facing down. Next lay out your pre cut lengths of 1/2" ply
> as follows:
> First place your two side rails on the outside edges either side, then place
> the 7" wide base rail horizontally between them at the very bottom, directly
> above that place the upper base rail and then place the top rail at the top
> edge. Finally figure and mark the center point of the top and upper base
> rail out, mark it and place the 12" center rail vertically between these two
> points. You now have your basic frame laid out. You need to attach these
> frame pieces to the Luan. I would suggest (now you know how it should look)
> removing them and re-laying them out on the floor in front of you, then
> place the Luan board on top (with your markings facing up) and nail through
> the Luan into the ply wood frame rails, a little glue wouldn't hurt.
> YOU ARE ALMOST FINISHED!
> Once the frame pieces have been nailed to the Luan and the glue has dried,
> take a plane and knock a 45 degree bevel top frame rail, but not so deep
> that you cut into the Luan. Then, with a jig saw, cut out areas we marked
> earlier.
> Once again lay the back rest on the floor, frame side up, as we have two
> more pieces of wood to add. These strengtheners are 23 & 1/2" long, 1 & 1/2"
> wide by 1" deep. They run top to bottom, on their edge, at a slight diagonal
> beginning, (measuring along the top of the backrest)  4" in from the hood
> bow notch on either side - to just inside the notch we cut out for the leaf
> spring shackle. You will see once you lay these on your backrest that you
> will have to notch out these strengtheners so they attach to the Luan in
> some places and frame in others. These pieces have a 45 degree bevel on ALL
> FOUR long edges that will be inside the seat back. In addition the ends are
> cut at 45 degrees so that they taper to create a wedge (2 - 2 1/2" long)
> towards the top and bottom of the seat. These pieces are then attached to
> the back rest with screws from behind.
> There are just two more things you have to do. In the square area of Luan
> that you now see either side of the center rail, drill a 1" air hole in the
> middle. Finally, sand all the outside edges so there is nothing that will
> rip you new leather when it's applied.
> THAT'S IT!!!! You now have a Morgan back rest!
> 
> You should be able to re-use the springs from your old back rest. As I
> mentioned earlier, there are 19 ! The two side rails get three large ones
> each as does the center rail, the top row of the larger ones are bent down.
> The square Luan section on each side get five small springs each, in a
> square shape with one in the middle. All protruding frame edges on the
> inside of the seat are covered with horse hair. A good auto upholsterer
> should be able to take it from here.
> 
> Good luck!!
> 
> Jeff Webster
> 
> ------------
> 
> From: "Jeff Webster" <carfindr at tiac.net <mailto:carfindr at tiac.net>>
> To:   "John T. Blair" <jblair at exis.net <mailto:jblair at exis.net>> 
> Subject: RE: Roadster seat backrest (rebuild).
> 
> Jeff,
> 
>    If you don't mind, I'd like to put your article up on the SOL's Morgan 
> Web page.  Also do you have any pictures or sketches to go with your 
> explaniation?
> 
> ----------------------------
> 
> John
> 
>  
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> John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net <mailto:jblair1948 at cox.net>
> Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229
>  
>           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
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