[Mgs] Carb cleaning

Richard Lindsay richardolindsay at gmail.com
Sat Apr 25 19:03:07 MDT 2020


I love SUs. They are elegant machines that solve dynamic problems that
later will be solved by computer algorithms!

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 7:25 PM Osborne, Paul <paul at ece.rochester.edu> wrote:

> Rick,   Yes, I wondered what he referred to when he said Clean, thought it
> might be the outward looks possibly not inside and operational. Good
> comments below.
>
> paul
>
>
> On Apr 25, 2020, at 8:53 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> Paul had some good suggestions and I agree. But Tom, I find myself
> pondering over your word 'clean'. Do you mean 'shine them up' or 'remove
> deposits from inside'?  Carb cleaner is good for both jobs and let me add a
> word or two if cleaning inside is the quest.
>
> I just cleaned the SUs on my TD and doing so made a world of difference.
> But first of all, someone here said, "Most carburetor problems are
> electrical." That's a funny turn of phrase but it's true. I tuned and tuned
> my TD's SUs before putting the timing light on the TD and discovered that
> the timing was jumping around. New springs in the distributor's mechanical
> advance calmed the jitter making carburetor tuning a one time affair. But
> back to cleaning.
>
> I marked the covers for rotation position, removed the damper pistons, and
> removed the covers, setting them aside carefully, labeled 'F' and 'R'. I
> then lifted out the air pistons complete with needles, dumped out the oil,
> and set them aside with their covers.
>
> Using fresh, clean, pipe cleaners wetted with carb cleaner, I carefully
> ran the pipe cleaners up and down the jets, switching to a new pipe cleaner
> as the previous one became discolored. I then wiped the chokes clean with a
> shop rag and carb cleaner. That finished the carb bodies.
>
> I next cleaned the air pistons and needles with carb cleaner and shop rags
> paying particular care to protect the needles. I also sprayed carb cleaner
> into the damper bore, washing out any old oil. The insides of the covers
> were wiped clean and the piston bores were flushed clean.
>
> I live in a very humid climate where rust flashes quickly. I don't know
> whether the air pistons and bores are stainless but I took no chances. I
> applied 3-in-1 oil to the air pistons and inserted them into the bores in
> the covers, coating all with light oil.
>
> Back at the car I verified that the heights of the jets and were the same
> then switched on the fuel pump. Petrol came to the top of one jet but not
> to the other. I adjusted the float bowl valve until both levels were the
> same.
>
> Back in went the air pistons, the covers on and the screws tightened
> gradually checking for proper piston drop as they were snugged down. BTW, I
> use lockwashers on the carb bowl screws so they don't work loose but more
> importantly, so they don't need to be over-tightened.
>
> The rest is tuning. Airflow was balanced and the mixture was reset.
>
> The part I left out was cleaning the needles but that's quite
> controversial so let's leave it at, "I cleaned the needles."
>
> And of course, this is just my story, not an authoritative treatise on SU
> maintenance. Maybe it helps someone.
>
> Rick
>
> On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 5:54 AM Thomas Gunderson via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> What is a good way to clean SU carbs without removing them?
>>
>> Tom Gunderson
>> 1957 MGA 1500 rst
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone X
>>
>>
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>
> Paul Osborne
> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
> University of Rochester
> 201 Hopeman Building RC
> Rochester NY 14627
>
>    585-275-5226
>
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