[Mgs] Silly error.

Fri Jun 14 07:00:51 MDT 2019

Well done Bob.
Yes, I have had the Pertronix pickup in cars too and it does wonders BUT,
it does not solve the worn distributor problem that affects timing
instability. That problem requires a distributor rebuild with new parts, or
a replacement with the whole Pertronix distributor. I chose the later to
kill two birds with one stone. Just my experience, not a condemnation of
anyone else's. A correct, healthy OEM distributor also works just fine, and
is 'correct'. ( I put my concours judge hat on for that last sentence.  :-)

Rick

On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 7:49 AM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:

>   The owner said that it was running well when put away last fall. I don’t
> know the status of his distributor, so will do the tests you suggested. TF
> distributor access is not as convenient as TD, so he could well have
> forgotten the oiling locations in it.
>   That’s a good DPO story about the Biro spring found in GT6.
>   Several in our club have bought the Pertronix distributors and say they
> work well. It was the little Pertronix unit that I installed in my MGB when
> its shaft bushings were worn, and that the owner has in this TF.
>  The owner’s commitments keep him from working on the problem until
> Sunday. I am eager to get the engine running, as this is a nicely done car.
> Bob
>
>
> On Jun 14, 2019, at 8:38 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>    I wrote earlier but will repeat it here. Put your timing light on the
> #1 plug wire and observe the timing mark. Is it steady at idle? If not, the
> problem is probably in your distributor. When I rebuilt the distributor in
> my GT6, I discovered that someone had replaced one of the advance springs
> with a modified ball point pen (biro) spring! But even with new correct
> springs, the idle timing jumped around.
>    I verified that the distributor shaft bushings were not worn. That is,
> no shaft wobble. However, the pivot shafts and holes in the advance
> mechanism were worn, allowing the weights to move on their own, and thus
> the timing, but only at idle. Once spun up against the stops, the timing
> was constant.
>    I found the same wear problem in both my TR3b and TD! Pertronix
> distributors fixed the problem and let me set a smooth, constant slow idle.
> The OEM distributors are boxed up for the next owners.
>
> Rick
>
> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 7:24 AM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>    Thanks for this idea, and for introducing Laboratory Grease. Unknown
>> to me, I found it on Amazon for $6.75 the one ounce container.  That will
>> be a handy addition to the first-aid kit I keep.
>>   Fortunately, this engine’s carb shafts are snug. Carbs were rebuilt 10
>> years, 2500 miles ago, so the problem is not their shafts.
>>   I look forward to spending some time with it this weekend.
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On Jun 14, 2019, at 7:52 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hans wrote,
>>
>> > When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts.
>>
>>    So important. Here's a trick, a Bandaid or plaster if you will, to get
>> you by if costly rebuilds are not an option. Fixing worn throttle shaft
>> bores with new bushings is a serious repair, and the correct way to fix the
>> vacuum leak. However, the following short term solution is to address the
>> symptom, not the problem.
>>
>>    Disassemble all the linkage at the carburetors. Purchase a few felt
>> washers the size of the throttle shafts or a little smaller, and a tube of
>> laboratory vacuum grease, the stuff they use to seal vacuum leaks in
>> laboratory glassware. Saturate the felt washers with vacuum grease as well
>> as the shafts where they exit the carb body and slide the greased washers
>> up against the body. Place a flat washer on the shaft and reassemble the
>> linkage, pressing the flat washer gently against the felt washer. The flat
>> washer and linkage will hold the greased felt washer in place and the
>> vacuum grease will seal the vacuum leak!
>>
>>    Vacuum grease is made to withstand a bit of heat but also, to not
>> 'migrate'. It will stay in place rather than get sucked into the carb's
>> choke like regular grease would do (once hot). The felt washer also helps.
>>
>>    Yes, this is a temporary fix, not a proper repair. But it is also a
>> $10 temporary fix, not a $500 repair.
>>
>>    A final word. Take care to reinstall the air chamber covers correctly
>> (Not interchanged!) and verify that the air pistons drop freely on to the
>> bridge with the dampers removed. Tighten the cover screws evenly working
>> around the carb until they are snug.
>>
>> Good luck! You're on the right track.
>>
>>
>> Rick
>> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 2:16 AM Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Good show Bob!
>>>
>>> When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts.
>>>
>>> Especially at lower revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with
>>> bad low speed driving as a result.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Hans
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Van:* Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com]
>>> *Verzonden:* vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21
>>> *Aan:* Richard Lindsay
>>> *CC:* Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List
>>> *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Silly error.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>    Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of
>>> float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of
>>> compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the
>>> passage.  If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF,
>>> with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult.
>>>
>>>    It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB,
>>> after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA.   I did, and it
>>> improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent
>>> the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the
>>> engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the
>>> distributor to fit.  This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100%
>>> sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as
>>> easy as in TD.
>>>
>>>   Fuel, air, spark—we are working to get them all in proper proportion.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Keep cleaning Bob. :-)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed
>>> issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran
>>> fantastic! The slow idle was perfect.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>   Good on both of you.
>>>
>>>   Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a
>>> friend in his TF, stored a year or so.  It ran out of go at 2500 rpm,
>>> sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000.
>>>
>>>   Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers.
>>> One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of
>>> that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid.
>>>
>>>   The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far
>>> larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump
>>> filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen
>>> filter in the tank, it was a puzzle.  We could check banjo, pump and
>>> additional filter-none had any grit or sediment.
>>>
>>>   Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says.
>>>
>>>   Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment
>>> is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day
>>> yesterday.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>    Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in
>>> two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the
>>> engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks.
>>>
>>>    I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A
>>> couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few
>>> laps around the shop and all was still well.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Funny – I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday.
>>>
>>> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to
>>> replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump.
>>>
>>> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom
>>> of the radiator pipe.
>>>
>>> Nut with a dry result!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal
>>> particles.
>>>
>>> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow.
>>>
>>> Then the GT should be roadworthy again.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Hans
>>>
>>> 71 BGT NRG -
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Richard Lindsay
>>> via Mgs
>>> *Verzonden:* woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51
>>> *Aan:* mgs at autox.team.net List
>>> *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Silly error.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi Friends,
>>>
>>>    My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the
>>> issue is universal. Here's the short story.
>>>
>>>    When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a
>>> hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to
>>> the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded
>>> hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks.
>>>
>>>    I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and
>>> place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully
>>> completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on
>>> my MG TD.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>>
>>>
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