[Mgs] Silly error.
Robert's New iPad
mgbobh at gmail.com
Fri Jun 14 06:49:38 MDT 2019
The owner said that it was running well when put away last fall. I don’t know the status of his distributor, so will do the tests you suggested. TF distributor access is not as convenient as TD, so he could well have forgotten the oiling locations in it.
That’s a good DPO story about the Biro spring found in GT6.
Several in our club have bought the Pertronix distributors and say they work well. It was the little Pertronix unit that I installed in my MGB when its shaft bushings were worn, and that the owner has in this TF.
The owner’s commitments keep him from working on the problem until Sunday. I am eager to get the engine running, as this is a nicely done car.
Bob
> On Jun 14, 2019, at 8:38 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I wrote earlier but will repeat it here. Put your timing light on the #1 plug wire and observe the timing mark. Is it steady at idle? If not, the problem is probably in your distributor. When I rebuilt the distributor in my GT6, I discovered that someone had replaced one of the advance springs with a modified ball point pen (biro) spring! But even with new correct springs, the idle timing jumped around.
> I verified that the distributor shaft bushings were not worn. That is, no shaft wobble. However, the pivot shafts and holes in the advance mechanism were worn, allowing the weights to move on their own, and thus the timing, but only at idle. Once spun up against the stops, the timing was constant.
> I found the same wear problem in both my TR3b and TD! Pertronix distributors fixed the problem and let me set a smooth, constant slow idle. The OEM distributors are boxed up for the next owners.
>
> Rick
>
>> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 7:24 AM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Thanks for this idea, and for introducing Laboratory Grease. Unknown to me, I found it on Amazon for $6.75 the one ounce container. That will be a handy addition to the first-aid kit I keep.
>> Fortunately, this engine’s carb shafts are snug. Carbs were rebuilt 10 years, 2500 miles ago, so the problem is not their shafts.
>> I look forward to spending some time with it this weekend.
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>> On Jun 14, 2019, at 7:52 AM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hans wrote,
>>>
>>> > When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts.
>>>
>>> So important. Here's a trick, a Bandaid or plaster if you will, to get you by if costly rebuilds are not an option. Fixing worn throttle shaft bores with new bushings is a serious repair, and the correct way to fix the vacuum leak. However, the following short term solution is to address the symptom, not the problem.
>>>
>>> Disassemble all the linkage at the carburetors. Purchase a few felt washers the size of the throttle shafts or a little smaller, and a tube of laboratory vacuum grease, the stuff they use to seal vacuum leaks in laboratory glassware. Saturate the felt washers with vacuum grease as well as the shafts where they exit the carb body and slide the greased washers up against the body. Place a flat washer on the shaft and reassemble the linkage, pressing the flat washer gently against the felt washer. The flat washer and linkage will hold the greased felt washer in place and the vacuum grease will seal the vacuum leak!
>>>
>>> Vacuum grease is made to withstand a bit of heat but also, to not 'migrate'. It will stay in place rather than get sucked into the carb's choke like regular grease would do (once hot). The felt washer also helps.
>>>
>>> Yes, this is a temporary fix, not a proper repair. But it is also a $10 temporary fix, not a $500 repair.
>>>
>>> A final word. Take care to reinstall the air chamber covers correctly (Not interchanged!) and verify that the air pistons drop freely on to the bridge with the dampers removed. Tighten the cover screws evenly working around the carb until they are snug.
>>>
>>> Good luck! You're on the right track.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Rick
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 2:16 AM Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
>>>> Good show Bob!
>>>>
>>>> When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts.
>>>>
>>>> Especially at lower revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with bad low speed driving as a result.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>> Hans
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Van: Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com]
>>>> Verzonden: vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21
>>>> Aan: Richard Lindsay
>>>> CC: Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List
>>>> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Silly error.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult.
>>>>
>>>> It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as easy as in TD.
>>>>
>>>> Fuel, air, spark—we are working to get them all in proper proportion.
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Keep cleaning Bob. :-)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran fantastic! The slow idle was perfect.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Good on both of you.
>>>>
>>>> Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000.
>>>>
>>>> Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid.
>>>>
>>>> The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional filter-none had any grit or sediment.
>>>>
>>>> Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says.
>>>>
>>>> Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day yesterday.
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks.
>>>>
>>>> I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Rick
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Funny – I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday.
>>>>
>>>> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump.
>>>>
>>>> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe.
>>>>
>>>> Nut with a dry result!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles.
>>>>
>>>> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow.
>>>>
>>>> Then the GT should be roadworthy again.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>> Hans
>>>>
>>>> 71 BGT NRG -
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs
>>>> Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51
>>>> Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List
>>>> Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Hi Friends,
>>>>
>>>> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story.
>>>>
>>>> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks.
>>>>
>>>> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Rick
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Virusvrij. www.avast.com
>>>>
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>>>>
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