[Mgs] A short tale of parts & service [Postscript]
i erbs
eyera3000 at gmail.com
Sun Oct 7 19:06:46 MDT 2018
check to see if the gauge needs cleaning. Gently remove the pointers and
remove the gauge face. most likely the gears are gummy
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
_______ _______
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
(_________________________)
BT7 engine and disk brakes
1967 MGB [image: MG]
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 5:13 PM Max Heim via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> How could the capsule get damaged?
>
> I unscrewed it from the head, and gently pulled the tube out of the way.
> Then I replaced it after replacing the head.
>
> Unfortunately, it never occurred to me to see what the gauge was reading
> while the head was off and the capsule was resting on the inner fender.
>
> I’m not sure what the test would demonstrate. I already know it responds
> to temperature changes, so the capillary tube is not broken. The problem
> seems to be at the gauge end. I just can’t figure out what that would be.
>
> I know there is a flattened tube rolled into a coil inside the gauge.
> Could it have unrolled beyond its intended limit during the overheating
> episode, and is now hung up on some protuberance inside the housing,
> preventing it from recoiling?
>
>
> --
> Max Heim
> mvheim at sonic.net
>
>
>
> On Oct 7, 2018, at 3:49 PM, B H <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Yours has the non-electric temp sender and gauge?
> If it does, the gauge is moved by pressure of expanding ether in the
> little capsule that is screwed into the engine. If it reads 220 from the
> beginning, my guess is that the capsule got squeezed or the tube damaged
> during the R&R.
> Test by removing capsule from engine, and putting it into a pan of hot
> water. Check the temp with your hand-held thermometer.
> Bob
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 7, 2018 at 6:30 PM Max Heim via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I just got the engine back together, but now the temperature gauge is
>> malfunctioning.
>>
>> It seems to have got stuck at about 220. That’s what it was reading
>> before I even tried to start the car. After warming up to operating temp
>> (estimated, of course), the gauge had climbed into the oil pressure zone,
>> reading at 85 psi. At this point my cheap temp gun had the thermostat
>> housing at around 180.
>>
>> Anyone seen this before? Any suggestions?
>>
>>
>> --
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB
>>
>> On Sep 26, 2018, at 9:11 AM, Max Heim via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> Actually, when we finally got to my house, we swapped the luggage into my
>> 1967 Barracuda convertible and headed up the freeway to catch up with the
>> Melee. Reached the first night’s stop in Red Bluff by 7pm.
>>
>> Not the first participants to have to pull in a backup vehicle…
>>
>> The plastic blade didn’t directly “puncture” the radiator, actually. But
>> it was trapped inside the shroud, and wound up smashing several tubes right
>> where they enter the top and bottom tanks (the blade being caught on the
>> lip of the tank at each revolution, I think). I didn't even know that it
>> had thrown a blade until I started disassembly — I was assuming the 50+
>> year old radiator had just suddenly developed a stress crack after being
>> transferred from one body to another.
>>
>> With 5 or 6 tubes mangled top and bottom, it lost coolant instantly, and
>> the radiator shop said it was irreparable other than by completely recoring
>> it.
>>
>> --
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB
>>
>> On Sep 26, 2018, at 3:56 AM, Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> A bummer that you couldn't participate in the melee, Max, I bet you were
>> disappointed. Good recovery by Moss, though.
>>
>> Just tells you how fast these things spin, for a plastic blade to
>> puncture a metal radiator!
>>
>> Dan D
>> '76B, '65B
>> Central NJ USA
>> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 25, 2018 at 11:36 PM Max Heim via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I haven’t said much on the list about my project. but I got my “new” 66
>>> B roadster together in time for the start of the California Melee on Sept.
>>> 8. Unfortunately, a blade flew off the new Moss plastic fan within the
>>> first ten miles and punctured the radiator, so that was as far as it got —
>>> from the San Francisco Presidio to Marin Civic Center.
>>>
>>> I made the mistake of trying to get it to the next exit (it was a bad
>>> place to be on the shoulder, between the sound wall and 5 lanes of traffic
>>> doing 75+), which resulted in overheating and a blown head gasket. Total
>>> mileage to failure on this fan was 307 miles.
>>>
>>> Subsequent examination of the stub revealed an air pocket in the plastic
>>> right at the center of the base of the blade. Moss accepted my photo of
>>> this as evidence of a manufacturing flaw. This model of fan was already out
>>> of production (and out of warranty) — I had purchased it as part of a large
>>> order back in 2015 when the car body was still in the paint shop.
>>>
>>> But regardless, they decided to send me a new fan ("new model" nylon
>>> 7-blade fan) and a new aluminum radiator (the shop had told me mine was
>>> irreparable). I thought this was pretty decent of them.
>>>
>>> I just picked up my head at the machine shop where they had skimmed the
>>> surface and cleaned up the valves. In the meantime I had inspected the
>>> lifters based on a tip from Dave at British Motorsports in Campbell and
>>> found a few of them were showing pitting. By replacing them now I can save
>>> the cam.
>>>
>>> Now I just need to pick up the lifters and the gasket set and I should
>>> be able to have it back together this weekend.
>>>
>>> A few tips based on my experience:
>>>
>>> 1. Just shut it down. If I had stayed out on the freeway verge I would
>>> have saved the head gasket, and AAA would have picked me up in a timely
>>> manner. But since I had reported myself “safe” and off the highway, it took
>>> 4 hours to get a tow.
>>>
>>> 2. Check your lifters every so often. I had replaced the cam and lifters
>>> due to lifter spalling sometime between 1998 and 2010. The new lifters were
>>> just starting to pit in 2018.
>>>
>>> 3. If you have a yellow plastic 7-bladed fan from Moss USA purchased
>>> prior to mid-2015, you may want to consider retiring it. I suppose if it
>>> hasn’t broken so far, it probably doesn’t have air bubbles in a critical
>>> location. But they had perhaps a dozen reported incidents. The current
>>> product being sold as part #434-332 is a different pattern by a different
>>> maker in a different material, so should not be a cause for worry.
>>>
>>> Buy British, Buy Best!
>>>
>>> --
>>> Max Heim
>>> '66 MGB
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net
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>>>
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>>>
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>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
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