[Mgs] MGB Question

[Robert's New iPad]

  Oh, omitted before---the quick way to raise compression is to use the "shallow dish" pistons fitted to engines sold in the UK in place of the "deep dish" pistons used in US engines, the engines with L (low) in the engine number. As you will be using new pistons anyway....
  Yes, you can mill the head and even deck the block a little. But before you get into removing irreplaceable metal, check volume of the head and that of the cylinders, then do the maths with Burgess' formula to calculate compression. 
Bob


> On Jan 8, 2017, at 10:33 AM, Jack Wheeler via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi Ted, and members of the 'Mgs' Group.  I am planning to rebuilt my MGB engine over the winter (1971).  The engine still runs pretty well, but it has over 90,000 miles on it, and it uses oil.  While I'm at it, I'd like to improve the performance of the engine, but nothing too radical.  Thought I would go with a performance cam, slightly stronger than stock, but still leaving the car driveable around town.  As you know, I am very familiar with TR engines, but have never done anything but stock rebuilds on MGB's.
> 
> On the Triumph we milled the head to increase compression.  Can I do the same on my MGB?  If so, how much to get it up- to about 10:1?  Are there any weak links in the system that need to be addressed to accommodate the cam and compression?  Valve springs, valves, Flywheel lightening, etc.  Did Kastner publish a "Competition Preparation Manual" for the MGB, like he did for the TR-3/4?  If so, are copies available, and do you know where I might find one?
> 
> Thanks for any help you can give me.
> 
> Jack
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Forwarded Message -----
> From: Hans Duinhoven via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> To: 'Allen Hess' <allenhess at mgcarclub.com> 
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2016 6:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Question on MGB Light Switches
> 
> I did the same with the fuel punt contacts in 1998. Never had any problem since.
>  
> Cheers,
> Hans
> 71 BGT
>  
> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Allen Hess via Mgs
> Verzonden: dinsdag 15 november 2016 23:45
> Aan: mgs at autox.team.net
> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Question on MGB Light Switches
>  
> When I had that problem it was as simple as sanding the switch contacts to clean them of 30-40 years oxidation. Take apart and clean has solved a lot of problems.
>  
> On Nov 15, 2016, at 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>  
> From: Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [Mgs] Question on MGB Light Switches
> Date: November 14, 2016 at 6:52:14 PM EST
> To: "mgs at autox.team.net" <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Reply-To: Jack Wheeler <jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com>
>  
> I have a 1971 MGB that has a problem with the headlight switches.  Before I start replacing everything and hope for the best, I thought I would ask if any of you has had a similar problem, or can suggest a possible solution.
> 
> 
> When I push bottom of the light switch (on the dash) to the first position, the parking lamps and tail lights come on.  OK, so far.  When I push the light switch to the second position, the headlights come on with the low beam.  OK, again.  Now comes the problem.
>  
> When I move the stalk on the left side of the steering column forward (toward the dash), the lights go off (i.e. no high beams).  If I pull this stalk all the way towards me, the high beams do come on, so the bubs are apparently OK.
> 
> 
> My first thought was that it may be the high beam/low beam and direction indicator switch located on the steering column.  Does this sound right?  Any other thoughts?
> 
> 
> And finally, if this is the case, is this switch available, and if so, do you have a source you would recommend.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help.
> 
> 
> Jack Wheeler
>  
> 
> 
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