[Mgs] Carbs still being nasty

[Charley & Peggy Robinson]

A pox on listening to the carbs with a hose!  Buy a Unisyn gauge.  It 
doesn't cost much and it will last forever.

If the throttle stops are pitted, obviously the idle screws need to be 
screwed in further than 1.5 turns.  Turn each in another half turn or 
more  in order to get the engine to idle.  Just make sure to adjust each 
carb's screw the same amount.  When you get the Unisyn, you'll use it 
and the idle screws to equalize the carbs' air flows.

CR


On 12/26/2016 3:35 PM, Clayton Kirkwood via Mgs wrote:
>
> Paul,
>
> The second to last picture shows the correct orientation: the conical 
> end does go in first. The Moss page suggests otherwise.
>
> Alright folks, this is where I am. No leaks, properly polarized bowl 
> valves, readjusted the tabs for the valve moving part, bought new 
> floats and replaced overflow copper pipes (no charcoal – just straight 
> drip, and new jet needles. I watched video from Twist and was able to 
> get a good drop like his – 6 – 8 seconds. The stop plates for the idle 
> screws are heavily dug pitted, which led to the problems of screwing 
> them out and then back in 1.5 turns. I have been having some success 
> with tuning the idle screw and jet, but I get hardly a change in engine.
>
> I can’t keep the engine running when tuning for both slow idle, it 
> dies as soon as I start it. I have had some success listening through 
> the rubber tube and there is significant difference. I presume the 
> intake which sounds weaker needs the idle raised??
>
> I also plan on using Barney’s adjustment of the throttle wire: mine is 
> quite loose. The starter readjusted itself.
>
> TIA,
>
> Clayton
>
> *From:* PaulHunt73 [mailto:paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 6, 2016 1:05 AM
> *To:* crk at godblessthe.us; mgs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Mgs] Carbs still being nasty
>
> Do we know what year this car is? Which SUs or Stromberg?
>
> If you have the charcoal canister then it's possible for that to get 
> choked, and there is plenty of pipe-work to get blocked and cause 
> problems as well.
>
> If you are talking about the float valve there should be a sprung 
> metal pin at the bottom that the float lever bears on.  The tip was 
> originally brass and conical going into a circular chamfered seat, 
> later changed to Viton which is typically black or red, but still 
> conical, see here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/fvalve.htm#1 My manuals 
> don't show what you describe, but Moss Europe for the HIF does seem to 
> show the moving part of the valve upside down relative to the float, 
> but the HS is the right way up.  It's not possible to tell from the US 
> Moss site which way up they are in either HS or HIF.  That's not to 
> say that someone hasn't installed a really rubbish copy.
>
> PaulH.
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>
>     Well, I took an air compressor to the bottom end of the tub and
>     couldn’t get any air through the tube.
>
>     As to the valve: the manual and I think Moss show the rubber down
>     which hits the lever, leaving the brass to close against the valve
>     hole at the top.
>
>
>
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