[Mgs] MGA front suspension interrogatory

[Clayton Kirkwood]

See comments in line below:

I still don't know how tight to make the hub nut. And now further below...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eric J Russell [mailto:ejrussell at mebtel.net]
> Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2015 12:50 PM
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Cc: crk at godblessthe.us
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGA front suspension interrogatory
> 
> > I am in the process of re-installing my front suspension and have a
> > couple of questions. As the upper link goes in I am supposed to
> > tighten ultimately until there is around .003 in end play.
> >
> > When tightening all of the castellated nuts at the swivel pins and the
> > lower arms to chassis pins how tight are the nuts to be tightened.
> >
> > Also, the swivels spun around with great ease before tightening and
> > inserting swivels between arms. However, the installed unit seems to
> > bind when rotating the around the swivel pins now.
> 
> The MGA Guru will have some info to help:
> http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/suspensn/susp1.htm
> 
> 
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2922
> 4
> Referring to the sketch from Moss Motors: the play for the links is due to
the
> distance tube (#21) being slightly longer than the swivel link with
bushing (#7
> & 10). I have read about some replacement parts that were made incorrectly
> - the distance tube not being the correct length.
> 
> Sometimes it is necessary to loosen the cross-bolt in the upper A-arm
(shock
> link) in order to easily install the upper swivel link.

Yep, thought about doing this but wasn't sure how wise it would be to split
that
Joint. Fortunately, I was able to squeeze the swivel and parts in just
barely.

Either way, still no answer to how tight. Given that the upper links were
tight
getting in, I suspect that tightening just a bit more that minimal will do,
to hold the pieces tight against the inner steel piece given that that path
should be tight so that the swivel will rotate inside the brass bushing.
There doesn't seem to be any way to measure or use to have the .003 play in
there.

In addition, the book calls for 80/90 weight oil for lubrication of the
swivels and pin. Barney suggests grease. Problem with 80/90 is that it will
slowly collect at the bottom seal or leak out the bottom swivel pin hole.
Good thing is it flow better around the pin and bushing and down the threads
of the pin. Problem with grease is that it will take a lot of pressure to
get the grease down the threads of the pin and probably not happen. Good
thing is that it will hold its position much better. One thing Barney spoke
of was the pin hole which may or may not exist on the bottom of the bottom
swivel. My read on the hole is that it allows lubricant to reach even to the
bottom of the pin threads by relieving the otherwise built up internal air
pressure. I am almost thinking of using 140 weight.

> 
> The kingpins have a central area with smaller diameter - this is for the
> distance tubes (#21) to pass through. If the swivel links are turned in
too far
> or too little the distance tubes will foul the kingpin when it is rotated.
Make
> sure you have them centered about this section on the kingpins.

Upon assembly, I was careful to properly distance the waist. I don't think
they rotated as I was fighting putting them on and messing with the darn
dust cover which is uncommonly difficult to apply with the spacers. Also,
when things weren't tightened down they moved easier. I guess I'll have to
put some miles on and retest.

> 
> The suspension nuts are tightened 'tight enough'. I suppose there is a
torque
> measurement but in reality they are large nuts/threads and if you can
break
> them using hand tools then they were defective and it was good they broke
> in your garage! It is important that they be tightened with the weight of
the
> car on the suspension - tires on the ground/bounce it a few times to
settle
> everything in a neutral position - then do the final tightening. If
needed,
> tighten them a little more to allow the cotter pin to be inserted.

No torque guidance other than the bolts for the calipers. I don't want to
crush the poly bushing ends but they need to be tight enough that there is
essentially no rotation, but also have both bushes on each end equally
squished. I guess tight enough will have to do. I'm not concerned with
breaking the threaded parts just the bushes properly tight but not too
tight, just right:<))

Crk

Ps: come one, come all. Certainly there is more knowledge out there. Speak
up for the betterment of all...

> 
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> 
>