[Mgs] B/GT light switch -- now heater/defroster

[Barney Gaylord]

Find those pictures with the "MGB Heater Rebuild and Upgrade" tech 
session photos and notes here: http://chicagolandmgclub.com/photos/b_heater

Pictures of the cut slot, and later production slot are near bottom of page.


At 10:59 AM 3/14/2014 -0400, Barrie Robinson wrote:
>I had the extreme delight of trying to put my heater back into my 
>MGB GT V8.  The cable got in the way and my fingers were not tiny 
>tot size.  In a brilliant flash of intelligence I not only saw the 
>problem but formulated a solution.  Don't you love it when you 
>formulate!.    I cut a long hole to allow the cable to get in easily 
>and to sent details to Barney Gaylord who put it in the Chicago (?) 
>club tech notes.  I cannot find the web site now but it is there 
>somewhere.  The information with photos was put on the web 
>site.  Anyway, I found later that MGBs after a certain date had a 
>similar cut hole - just like mine.  It made putting back a piece of cake.


>At 07:41 PM 13/03/2014 -0700, Max Heim wrote:
>>Believe me, you do not want to try to take the heater out. Getting it back
>>in is one of those jobs that makes grown men weep.
>>
>>Using the tube nozzle, squirt the hinge with PB Blaster, let it soak in, and
>>then try to work it back and forth. Maybe you can free it up enough to
>>function. Lubing the cable can help, too.
>>....


>>on 3/13/14 7:30 PM, Carr&Edwards at scvc70 at epix.net wrote:
>> > Non-working heater controls were something else I've been dealing with --
>> > much easier to do with the driver's seat out so you can lie on 
>> the floor in
>> > relative comfort!
>> >
>> > The cable stop on the temperature control cable wasn't tight 
>> enough to keep
>> > the wire from slipping through it when the knob was turned, so 
>> knob movement
>> > had no effect on the valve on the engine block.  Two people are needed for
>> > this fix--one to watch the valve movement, the other to turn the knob and
>> > tighten the cable stop at the right spot.
>> >
>> > The car's heater/defroster control had lost its cable stop--but 
>> installing a
>> > new one didn't help matters any; I could barely move the knob 
>> with the cable
>> > connected.  Removal of the little hood on the side of the tunnel that
>> > deflects air downward at the feet let me see why:  the metal flap that
>> > changes the air direction when the knob is turned was so rusty 
>> that I could
>> > move it only with a screwdriver as a lever.  The only way to access this
>> > flap to clean/lubricate it is to take the entire heater out -- 
>> which I just
>> > don't feel like doing!  We never drive the car when it's bitter 
>> cold anyway
>> > (far too much salt on the roads here), so I just set everything 
>> to "OFF" and
>> > will leave it that way.
>> >....


>> > From: <mgbob at juno.com>
>> > Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2014 4:34 PM
>> >....
>> >    I thought that I might have noticed a tiny breath of air from those
>> > defroster mists once, but the draught was from a vent window not fully
>> > closed.
>> >   My 1972 has a single speed switch. The motor runs well and does blow air
>> > out the foot warming ports, but almost none goes to the windshield.
>> > ....