[Mgs] testing a generator from a 62 mga

[Clayton Kirkwood]

Well, I did as you suggested: I connected the two terminals, clamped a volt
meter to one terminal and ground. Spun up a drill attached to the pulley
nut. Reversed the spin just in case it made a difference. No matter, I
couldn't get more than a few tenths of a volt.

Took the beasty apart. One carbon brush wouldn't move so I got it out and
gently sanded it down a little so that it slid in and out properly hoping
this was the problem. Read in the manual that the field coil should read
between 6 and 6.3 ohms. I got 5.8. Doesn't seem like much but could this be
part of the problem. I cleaned out the spaces between the raised metal of
the commutator and what ever is under the carbon brushed. Turned the drill
on and no difference.

Hard to believe that the problem is the ohm reading difference on the field
coil. Doesn't look like there is anything else to check. Yes I did clean the
spades.

Any more insight?

TIA,

Clayton

-----Original Message-----
From: PaulHunt73 [mailto:paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com] 
Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2014 1:37 AM
To: crk at godblessthe.us; mgs at autox.team.net; mgacars at yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Mgs] testing a generator from a 62 mga

You need to spin it from a variable speed source while the F and D terminals
are connected together.  Monitor the voltage between those terminals and the
body, and don't let it go above 20v.  If it can get to 20v then it probably
is OK, usually if the stator or rotor circuits are faulty it won't get
anywhere near that.  It should reach 20v before the engine it is attached to
is spinning at 1000rpm, which is why it is better to test it on the engine,
if you don't have somewhere handy that can do a proper voltage and current
test.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> My question is: is there a way to check a generator without reinstalling
> after scraping the connectors clean? It is a pain in the rear to get in 
> and
> out as you know.