[Mgs] Raising motor to change mounts

[Monte/Jane Morris]

Scott,
I did the the ZS to HIF conversion myself 3-4 years ago (and don't
consider myself a mechanic:).
I also replaced the motor mounts at the same time as the above. If
memory serves me, to get to the nuts I ground down a wrench, jacked up
the motor by the oil pan as stated above, and let the pinion slide
downwards by removing the bottom plate below the steering damper and
loosening the nut on the U-joint on the steering. Don't move the
steering wheel or wheels while the pinion is loose( I marked the
steering pinion and the U-joint so I could put them back in the same
place.
I haven't a clue if method this is recommended, but it worked fine for
me and the steering/toe in, etc all were maintained as before.

On 11/24/07, Paul Hunt <paul.hunt1 at blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> Not sure I understand this.  AFAIK the 77 and later mounts are to the same
> design (albeit slightly softer) than the V8 and the chassis brackets are
> identical.  My V8 mounts have two holes in 'ears' on the side of the mount
> that goes towards the engine, for bolts to attach it to the engine, plus the
> off-set stud that goes through the chassis bracket.  Incidentally the mount
> must be orientated such that the stud is in the lower of the two possible
> positions.  The chassis bracket has a slot cut in it rather than a circular
> hole, and this serves two purposes.  Normally one would attach the mounts to
> the engine and lower it into position.  The studs are at an angle and so the
> slots allow them to pass through the chassis mount (the engine being lowered
> vertically), which they wouldn't if they were only plain holes.  It also
> allows for dimensional differences between the chassis rails by allowing the
> mounts to sit higher up or lower down as appropriate.  Sometimes shims were
> added if the engine sat too low, as the exhaust on the V8 can hit the
> steering shaft and the inner wing.  The stud has a large flat square washer
> plus a split washer and a nut to secure it, none of these 'lift out' when
> the mount is lifted up, they have to be completely removed.
>
> One of my standard spanners (inherited from my father) fits in the space to
> tighten/undo this nut.  It is called a 'slim jim' or something similar, but
> doesn't seem to be that much slimmer than my modern spanners.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> > regards to the spinning - there is a 'dimple' of sorts pressed into the
> > mount
> > metal that ends up being opposite of the stud that attaches to the car
> > frame.
> > The hole in the dimple made me think that it was attached to the engine
> > with
> > a
> > bolt. It sounds now like there may be a lug or a catch of some kind that
> > will
> > lift out when the engine is raised. In that case the only two fastenings
> > for
> > each mount are to the engine front plate.
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