[Mg-t] TD Engine Pull

[mgbob at juno.com]

  That is, to me, a bad leak. A Moss improved seal might be the answer for
you.
  Our rear seals rely on a rather precise fitting of seal to crank to scroll
to scraper. Ours are thee main bearing crankshafts, so there is a slight
tendency to wobble. When the rear bearing wears, the wobble increases, and the
movement wears scraper and scroll. Some have found, also, that the crankshaft
centerline is slightly misaligned with the seal.
   My suggestion(s) remove the sump and have a look. You may find the the cork
was cut short, or the little tabs on the gasket were cut off at its
installation. Shake the crankshaft. It's not likely that you will feel any
movement, but if you do, it changes the approach.
    If you see an issue with installation of the seal, just clean it up and
replace; they worked well for thousands of engines for many years and miles.
   If the crank is loose, or oil pressure has been dismal, its time for main
bearings, which is engine out of car. That would give opportunity to measure
the engine and for machine shop to line hone if necessary. It would be
opportunity for the Moss seal too.
    Some have had great success with them, others not. I suspect that the
engine has to be in good order for any seal to work properly, but that the
Moss seal might be a bit more forgiving. Getting the scroll and scraper right
is something to do in either choice.
   Whatever, do remember to keep the jiggling split pin loose in the drain
hole. I have seen a few removed and, in one car, the hole filled.
Bob



---------- Original Message ----------
From: WBEECH <wbeech at flash.net>
To: "mgbob at juno.com" <mgbob at juno.com>
Cc: "mg-t at autox.team.net" <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 20:13:14 -0500

Parked for 20 min, puddle is 6" in diameter.   At idle it almost flows, at
higher revs it slows noticeably.

By "Improved Seal" are you referring to the $235.00 kit sold by Moss?

Thanks,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 12, 2013, at 11:50 PM, "mgbob at juno.com" <mgbob at juno.com> wrote:

>  If the leak is really bad, it indicates probable wear on the scroll and the
little shield.
>  If one can tolerate quarter to half-dollar drip spots, the original seal
will do.
>  In our club, six or eight owners have tried the improved seal. Half are
happy and half are not. I used the original seal type, and have no regrets.
> Bob
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: <wbeech at flash.net>
> To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD Engine Pull
> Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2013 15:33:49 -0500
>
> Finally getting around to the long-overdue task for replacing the rear main
> on the '52TD.  What is the consensus of the list as far as the best remedy
> for this repair/replacement?  I would rather not have to grind the crank to
> fit some aftermarket product.  Just going to do the seals and the top-end
is
> tight and there are no other real issues here.
>
> Also, as this is my first MGT engine job where is the best resource,
> on-line, to go to for soup-to-nuts guidance?
>
> Many thanks,
> Bill
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