[Mg-t] Mg-t Digest, Vol 7, Issue 17

[Glenn Schnittke]

If you decide to go the JB Weld route, yes there is, I think, a better 
product. It's called Marine-Tex. Not cheap but no good product is. The 
gray is stiffer than the white and more appropriate for mechanical mends 
than the white. It's formulated for marine fixes, obviously, and I swear 
by the stuff. I've mended engine water jackets, radiators and fuel tanks 
with it with no problems. I was even able to mend my wife's 
great-grandfather's cane for my mother-in-law to use. And I like my 
mother-in-law and don't want her to fall down. Use as directed, etc. Any 
good marine shop should carry it.

Which bolt? Embedded jpgs don't come through the list.

Glenn

On 3/8/2013 1:00 PM, mg-t-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Subject: [Mg-t] Cast Iron block lip broken
> Message-ID:<1bed7.241feb57.3e661176 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> The oil pan lip on the engine block has one triangular piece broken in the
> bolt area.
>
> Theoretically - the other bolts in the area will hold the pan in place and
> it has never leaked there since the previous rebuilder put massive amounts
> of Red- RTV on the gasket surfaces.
>
> I would like to repair this section - but am afraid of damaging the cast
> block - anyone have experience doing this kind of work?
>
> My solutions are three:
>
> 1.    Weld in thsi area - but this requires masive  amounts of preheat and
> high local heat - so I have nixed this solution.
>
> 2.    Fill in with brazing rod&  retap - Brazing  material is softer and at
> lower temps then welding - but still required high  preheat and slow
> cooling - being that this area is on an outside lip - I do not  believe I will
> have much to worry about shrinkage creating a crack - since the  brazing
> material should strech enough not to create undue stress on the cast  iron.  The
> only problems are the preheat and cooling adn the hardening of  the cast
> iron.
>
> 3.    USE J-B Weld and reinforcing it with steel screen  mesh and retapping
> - Drill 1/16" holes by 1/8" deep into the flange area  near the screw
> threads and at the flange edge.  J-B Weld 1/16" steel  rod into these areas to
> form the bases of support and strength.  Then cut  pieces of screen to fit and
> overlay the outside portion of the lip in the area -  then fill in with
> layers of J-B Weld and screen misture.  After retapping -  install a helicoil
> for the durability of the therads.
>
> This area does not need to be supper strong or super stressed under a high
> torque value - the pan is very rigid and the purpose is only to screw in a
> bolt  to hold the gasket in place somehat tight.
>
> Has anyone had to make such a repair?  Is J-B Weld a good strong resin  to
> use with cast iron? or is there a better resin?
>
> Or just leave it alone?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Michael Balahutrak
> 53 - TD