[Land-speed] GM "One-Wire" Alternator

[Skip Higginbotham]

Dick,
See below:

10SI Alternator Wiring

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The 10SI has three terminals (including those with a 1 wire regulator).
    * The large "BATT" terminal which gets connected to your battery 
positive. (Or Terminal Post if your vehicle is so equipped).
And a dual terminal connector. (Repair pig-tails for this connector 
available at any autoparts store. Or, salvage with alternator if 
pulling the alternator from a vehicle).
    * The #1 Terminal. (Marked with a "1" on the case)
        * This terminal is used to connect to the dash warning light.
            * For the warning light, a lamp is wired in series with a 
switched voltage source. During normal operation the lamp stays off. 
If the regulator is damaged, the #1 terminal provides ground, and the 
warning lamp will light. Usually.
        * This terminal is also active on 1 wire regulator equipped 
10SI alternators.
    * The #2 Terminal. (Marked with a "2" on the case)
        * This terminal is used to excite the 10SI into operation. 
(3-wire 10SI)
        * It is connected to the battery positive.
            * For simplicity you can connect the #2 connector pigtail 
directly to the "batt" terminal on the alternator.
        * The terminal is present on 1 wire regulators. Used only for 
those that require the stock connector to fit snugly.

If you are converting from a 3wire 10SI to a 1 wire regulator you can 
hook up all your stock connectors, and run it as is. However, thats 
wasted money unless you plan on cleaning out some wiring under your hood.

If the 1 wire is for cleaning out wires, you only need to retain the 
"BAT" wire. The #1 & #2 terminal wires can be eliminated. Don't be 
surprised to find that the #2 wire only goes a short way into the 
harness and spliced into the "BAT" wire.
The 1 wire regulator comes with a dust plug for the #1 & #2 terminals.


Mine works fine.

Skip















At 11:53 AM 11/21/2009, Dick J wrote:
>I have what I believe is referred to as a GM "one-wire" alternator that I want
>to use on my race car.  It has one large stud terminal marked "BAT", but it
>also has two smaller blade terminals marked  "1R' & "2F".  Do I have to do
>anything with those blade terminals, or do I just connect the bigger stud to
>the battery?  (Actually, to the disconnect switch on the rear fender.)
>
>DickJ
>In East Texas
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