[Healeys] Block Porosity

[Roger Grace]

Wayne - thank you.
Interesting that your friend's and my block leak at exactly the same spot
behind the center tappet cover. I wonder how many other blocks are out
there that also leak with unsuspecting users ?
When you had the pan off was this the only water drip that you could see ?
How were you able to confirm that the leak had been repaired by your
peening and epoxy ?

I used the same technique to do a repair.  Recently (800mi since repair)
opened the tappet cover again and there was no evidence of any water with
coolant at 12 psi.  Am a bit lazy to remove the sump to check but may have
to. I used Barrs when I first discovered the creamy goo - thinking it might
be a head gasket - this was before you put me onto the block porosity leak.
There is just no evidence of the creamy oil/water emulsion at any place.
However what disturbs me is that oil lab tests show water content above
their flag level. Been running with no glycol. Have a fluorescent dye in
the coolant as well. Losing a little coolant.
Any idea how much run time for the creamy emulsion to appear ?
Have also discovered that the ceramic block repair additives are not safe
to mix with the oil and could damage the bearings.

Last resort is a replacement block - grrr !
rg




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On Fri, Jan 10, 2025 at 3:12 PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hello Roger, my friend's  Healey with the Porosity problem, as we talked
> about a while ago, was behind the middle tappet access cover. His leak was
> at the raised boss with the threads for the tappet cover mount bolt. His
> engine would only drip when cold. When the block warmed up it did not leak.
> Slight heat expansion of the block was enough to stop the leak. At the end
> of the day I fell back to my Jaguar servicing in the Seventies when they
> said to add Bar's Stop leak when changing the coolant on their V12 engines.
> Following the instructions I warmed the engine with the Bar's and fresh
> coolant. As the engine cooled I used my cooling system pressure system
> tester and Pressurized  the system to 15 PSI and let it sit for 24 hours.
> My logic was as the engine cooled and the porosity  started to open  the
> Bar's coolant mixture would be forced into the leak. It seemed to work
> because he enjoyed the car for several seasons with no issues. I instructed
> him to change the oil every spring in the event of a slight leak over
> Winter. We never saw any more Yellow gunk on the dipstick or on the oil
> filler cap.   I will caveat that Bar's stop leak from  1970 is probably
> much different then what is sold now.  Hoping this might help others. I
> found the leak when I removed his oil pan and saw the dribble down the
> inside of the block into the oil pan area.
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