<div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div>Wayne - thank you.</div><div>Interesting that your friend's and my block leak at exactly the same spot behind the center tappet cover. I wonder how many other blocks are out there that also leak with unsuspecting users ?</div><div>When you had the pan off was this the only water drip that you could see ?<br></div><div>How were you able to confirm that the leak had been repaired by your peening and epoxy ?</div><div><br></div><div>I used the same technique to do a repair. Recently (800mi since repair) opened the tappet cover again and there was no evidence of any water with coolant at 12 psi. Am a bit lazy to remove the sump to check but may have to. I used Barrs when I first discovered the creamy goo - thinking it might be a head gasket - this was before you put me onto the block porosity leak. <br></div></div><div id="m_-1944095433255184945DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">There is just no evidence of the creamy oil/water emulsion at any place. However what disturbs me is that oil lab tests show water content above their flag level. Been running with no glycol. Have a fluorescent dye in the coolant as well. Losing a little coolant.<br></div><div>Any idea how much run time for the creamy emulsion to appear ?</div><div>Have also discovered that the ceramic block repair additives are not safe to mix with the oil and could damage the bearings.</div><div><br></div><div>Last resort is a replacement block - grrr !</div><div>rg<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div> <br><table style="border-top:1px solid #d3d4de"><tbody><tr><td style="width:55px;padding-top:13px"><a href="http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail" target="_blank"><img src="https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png" alt="" width="46" height="29" style="width:46px;height:29px"></a></td><td style="width:470px;padding-top:12px;color:#41424e;font-size:13px;font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:18px">Virus-free.<a href="http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail" style="color:#4453ea" target="_blank">www.avg.com</a></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Jan 10, 2025 at 3:12 PM Wayne Schultz <<a href="mailto:waschu2@gmail.com" target="_blank">waschu2@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">Hello Roger, my friend's Healey with the Porosity problem, as we talked about a while ago, was behind the middle tappet access cover. His leak was at the raised boss with the threads for the tappet cover mount bolt. His engine would only drip when cold. When the block warmed up it did not leak. Slight heat expansion of the block was enough to stop the leak. At the end of the day I fell back to my Jaguar servicing in the Seventies when they said to add Bar's Stop leak when changing the coolant on their V12 engines. Following the instructions I warmed the engine with the Bar's and fresh coolant. As the engine cooled I used my cooling system pressure system tester and Pressurized the system to 15 PSI and let it sit for 24 hours. My logic was as the engine cooled and the porosity started to open the Bar's coolant mixture would be forced into the leak. It seemed to work because he enjoyed the car for several seasons with no issues. I instructed him to change the oil every spring in the event of a slight leak over Winter. We never saw any more Yellow gunk on the dipstick or on the oil filler cap. I will caveat that Bar's stop leak from 1970 is probably much different then what is sold now. Hoping this might help others. I found the leak when I removed his oil pan and saw the dribble down the inside of the block into the oil pan area. </div>
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