[Healeys] BN2 back axle

Sat Mar 23 11:02:54 MDT 2024

 John, Thanks for the information. I was not aware of the differences between the early BN1, the BN2 & the later cars. Gary H
    On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 07:25:35 AM CDT, john harper <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:  

 Gary
The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate machining of the depth of the bearing location and an accurate bearing width. Tolerances are very tight and it is hoped that a gachet of correct thickness will make a good oil seal and at the same time grip the bearing outer from turning in its housing.
This problem was addressed by the manufacturer and an extra grove was machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fitted an 'O' ring that will seal the gap between the hub and half shaft. This will seal a wide range of tolerances and at the same time ensure that there is a good grip on the bearing outer.
If available the best solution is to find hubs for later big Healey and fit these together with 'O' rings.
Another solution is to run a continuous ring of liquid gasket around the face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective seal on early BN1 hubs.
All the best
On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper gasket must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too thin. I made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20 years!Gary Hodson
    On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:  

  Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years. I'm not sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that problem, but something to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get the requisite torque on the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner race; knocking it on with a hammer and chisel isn't a good solution (I use a purpose-made large socket and a 3/4" air impact driver). They can spin in the hub as well.

 Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I couldn't tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no name' and the 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or SK; I don't recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, but given the hassle of this job I went for 'premium.'

 On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:

 What Bob says.   
  The inner seal on the axle is the critical piece and if there is wear on the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar repair piece. BTW SKF and others make what they call semi-sealed or sealed bearings with plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing but since the sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never understood how they are supposed to get lubrication. 
  Best--Michael Oritt    
  On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06 PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

Mike,

The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.  No grease.  Oil flows between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to the bearing.  Yes, the paper gasket has to be oil tight.  The oil seal keeps the oil from lubricating the brake shoes.

 Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:

 Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? ( the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual doesn't tell you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is the back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing? If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will need to be oil tight. 
  Thanks in advance for any help. 
  Mike Brooks 56 BN2 Scotland 
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