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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">John, Thanks for the information. I was not aware of the differences between the early BN1, the BN2 & the later cars. </div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Gary H</div><div><br></div>
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On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 07:25:35 AM CDT, john harper <ah100tech@gmail.com> wrote:
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<div><div id="ydpb85ba1c9yiv4366777915"><div><div dir="ltr">Gary<div><br clear="none"></div><div>The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate machining of the depth of the bearing location and an accurate bearing width. Tolerances are very tight and it is hoped that a gachet of correct thickness will make a good oil seal and at the same time grip the bearing outer from turning in its housing.</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>This problem was addressed by the manufacturer and an extra grove was machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fitted an 'O' ring that will seal the gap between the hub and half shaft. This will seal a wide range of tolerances and at the same time ensure that there is a good grip on the bearing outer.</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>If available the best solution is to find hubs for later big Healey and fit these together with 'O' rings.</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>Another solution is to run a continuous ring of liquid gasket around the face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective seal on early BN1 hubs.</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>All the best</div></div><br clear="none"><div class="ydpb85ba1c9yiv4366777915gmail_quote"><div id="ydpb85ba1c9yiv4366777915yqt73297" class="ydpb85ba1c9yiv4366777915yqt5707494843"><div dir="ltr" class="ydpb85ba1c9yiv4366777915gmail_attr">On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys <<a shape="rect" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"></div><blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class="ydpb85ba1c9yiv4366777915gmail_quote"><div><div style="font-family:Sans sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div></div>
<div dir="ltr">The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper gasket must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.</div><div dir="ltr">The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too thin. I made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20 years!</div><div dir="ltr">Gary Hodson</div><div><br clear="none"></div>
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On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell <<a shape="rect" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:
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Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle
bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years.
I'm not sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that problem,
but something to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get the
requisite torque on the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner
race; knocking it on with a hammer and chisel isn't a good solution
(I use a purpose-made large socket and a 3/4" air impact driver).
They can spin in the hub as well.<br clear="none">
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Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I
couldn't tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no name'
and the 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or SK;
I don't recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, but given
the hassle of this job I went for 'premium.'<br clear="none">
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<div id="ydpb85ba1c9yiv4366777915m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d60cyiv6546823410yqtfd89942"><div>On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt
wrote:<br clear="none">
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<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">What Bob
says. </div>
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<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">The inner seal
on the axle is the critical piece and if there is wear on the
sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or
similar repair piece.</div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">BTW SKF and
others make what they call semi-sealed or sealed bearings with
plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing
but since the sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never
understood how they are supposed to get lubrication.</div>
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<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255);">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
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<div dir="ltr">On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at
5:06 PM Bob Haskell <<a shape="rect" href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>>
wrote:<br clear="none">
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<p>Mike,</p>
<p>The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil. No
grease. Oil flows between the axle shaft and the axle
housing to around to the bearing. Yes, the paper gasket
has to be oil tight. The oil seal keeps the oil from
lubricating the brake shoes.<br clear="none">
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<pre>Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
<div>On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:<br clear="none">
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<blockquote type="cite"> Can someone explain how the hub oil
seals are meant to work. They are inbord of the hub
bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? (
the service manual suggests they should, but the same
manual doesn't tell you to pack the hub with grease when
changing hub bearings and seals). Is the back axle oil
intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing?
If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to
half-shaft joint will need to be oil tight.
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<div>Thanks in advance for any help.</div>
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<div>Mike Brooks</div>
<div>56 BN2</div>
<div>Scotland</div>
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