[Healeys] Glycol in oil
Ken
goldengt at cal.net
Sun Mar 17 12:50:00 MDT 2024
When I threw my original block away in the early 80s it was when I took the pan off the water was dipping from above the cam. I don't think I thought about removing the tappet cover. The replacement block was free!Ken Freese 65bj8Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> Date: 3/16/24 9:57 PM (GMT-06:00) To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil Thank you and I do like the look of that lo temp silver solder for other applications and maybe if I haven't fixed it.There is no definitive crack as such. It is block cast iron porosity. It oozes very slowly from an area of about 1.5 x 1 in.Access is limited too. Just hoping that there are no other porous areas.A proper fix to my mind would be engine out; block stripped and vacuum resin impregnation - probably not going to happen for nowWhat intrigues me is that this is in exactly the same location as Wayne's friend had. So it surely is a weakness of this block ?Wonder how many others there are out there - some maybe unknown too ?I only picked it up by noting the creamy damp gunge in the inside of the valve cover. Remember too that less than a teaspoon of glycol in the oil triggers the oil analysis alarm.rgrgVirus-free.www.avg.comOn Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 7:54 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:I am definitely not an expert however I have successfully repaired some irreplaceable cast Iron water pump impellers using this product.https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htmI opted to use this because a very much lower temperature is required.MOn Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10:12 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your
best bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a
so-called 'uprated' water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise
seal up and the result was good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal.
Clean best you can and use a good flux.
https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron
On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via
Healeys wrote:
Congratulations on finding
the leak. I would not have much confidence in any epoxy. The
area would need to be impeccably clean including inside the
actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it
might be a candidate for an expert MIG/TIG welder?
Gary Hodson
On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne
Schultz via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
Yes, it was!
On Thu,
Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16 PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
wrote:
Wayne - you are a star !
I got lucky and think that I have found it.
Started by removing the center tappet side
cover.
Just like your experience - mine is below
the center cover mounting boss; there is a
ridge there just above the distributor drive.
Was this where the one you worked on was ?
Actually looks someone tried to repair it
before. Have no idea what they used, but is a
soft white putty like substance and the oozing
got worse when I removed it. Had the coolant
under pressure.
So now have to clean up and think about a
repair technique.
Thank you for responding .
rg
----------
Forwarded message ---------
From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
Cc: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Wayne,
Thank you. That sounds very similar
to my situation. Not quite sure that I
understand what you mean by the boss
that goes down to the sump ? Is this the
oil return path - interesting. Yes, my
plan is to get the pan off and
pressurize the coolant with some dye in
it and hopefully locate it.
So your repair was done with the
tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
block weakness and I get lucky with a
similar fault.
rg
Virus-free.www.avg.com
On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at
9:14 PM Wayne Schultz <waschu2 at gmail.com>
wrote:
Hi Roger,
My friend who had a Healey 3000
had a similar issue. We would
find coolant in the oil on the
dipstick and filler cap. I found
when we pressurized the cooling
system with the engine warm, no leak
noted, with the engine cold a slight
coolant leak in pressure. I decided
to drop the oil pan to look for
leaks and found a very slight leak
internally dripping into the oil pan
area. We found that the leak was
from the boss in between the 6 and 7
tappets. With that tappet cover
off we could see coolant drips
forming in that boss running down
into the pan area. It would only
leak when cold. Porosity? I think
so. I decided to Peen the boss with
a punch and seal with JB Weld. It
has been good ever since. I suggest
dropping your oil pan to look for
leaks might be the least invasive
first step in locating your
problem. Good luck.
Wayne
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