<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div dir="auto">When I threw my original block away in the early 80s it was when I took the pan off the water was dipping from above the cam. I don't think I thought about removing the tappet cover. The replacement block was free!</div><div dir="auto">Ken Freese </div><div dir="auto">65bj8</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div id="composer_signature" dir="auto"><div style="font-size:12px;color:#575757" dir="auto">Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone</div></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><br></div><div align="left" dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000"><div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net> </div><div>Date: 3/16/24 9:57 PM (GMT-06:00) </div><div>To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> </div><div>Cc: healeys@autox.team.net </div><div>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil </div><div><br></div></div><div dir="ltr"><div>Thank you and I do like the look of that lo temp silver solder for other applications and maybe if I haven't fixed it.</div><div>There is no definitive crack as such. It is block cast iron porosity. It oozes very slowly from an area of about 1.5 x 1 in.</div><div>Access is limited too. Just hoping that there are no other porous areas.<br></div><div>A proper fix to my mind would be engine out; block stripped and vacuum resin impregnation - probably not going to happen for now<br></div><div>What intrigues me is that this is in exactly the same location as Wayne's friend had. <br></div><div>So it surely is a weakness of this block ?<br></div><div>Wonder how many others there are out there - some maybe unknown too ?<br></div><div>I only picked it up by noting the creamy damp gunge in the inside of the valve cover. <br></div><div>Remember too that less than a teaspoon of glycol in the oil triggers the oil analysis alarm.</div><div>rg<br></div><div>rg<br></div><div><br></div></div><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br><table style="border-top:1px solid #d3d4de"><tbody><tr><td style="width:55px;padding-top:13px"><a href="http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail"><img style="width: 46px; height: 29px;" height="29" width="46" alt="" src="https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png" onmouseover="imageMousePointerUpdate(true)" onmouseout="imageMousePointerUpdate(false)"></a></td><td style="width:470px;padding-top:12px;color:#41424e;font-size:13px;font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:18px">Virus-free.<a style="color:#4453ea" href="http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail">www.avg.com</a></td></tr></tbody></table><a height="1" width="1" href="#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"></a></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 7:54 AM Michael Salter <<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex" class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr"><div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small" class="gmail_default">I am definitely not an expert however I have successfully repaired some irreplaceable cast Iron water pump impellers using this product.</div><div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small" class="gmail_default"><a href="https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm">https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm</a></div><div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small" class="gmail_default">I opted to use this because a very much lower temperature is required.</div><div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small" class="gmail_default"><br></div><div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small" class="gmail_default">M<br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10:12 AM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex" class="gmail_quote"><u></u>
<div>
MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your
best bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a
so-called 'uprated' water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise
seal up and the result was good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal.
Clean best you can and use a good flux.<br>
<br>
<a href="https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron">https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div style="font-family:Comic Sans MS,sans-serif;font-size:16px">
<div dir="ltr">Congratulations on finding
the leak. I would not have much confidence in any epoxy. The
area would need to be impeccably clean including inside the
actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it
might be a candidate for an expert MIG/TIG welder?</div>
<div dir="ltr">Gary Hodson </div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div id="m_-1750315590383346962m_8760898680477669716ydpbb1b946fyahoo_quoted_1378980925">
<div style="font-family:"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)">
<div> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne
Schultz via Healeys <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a> wrote: </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div id="m_-1750315590383346962m_8760898680477669716ydpbb1b946fyiv3499248027">
<div>
<div dir="ltr">Yes, it was! <br clear="none">
</div>
<br clear="none">
<div id="m_-1750315590383346962m_8760898680477669716ydpbb1b946fyiv3499248027yqt57983">
<div>
<div dir="ltr">On Thu,
Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16 PM Roger Grace <<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net" shape="rect">roggrace@telus.net</a>>
wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Wayne - you are a star !</div>
<div>I got lucky and think that I have found it.</div>
<div>Started by removing the center tappet side
cover.</div>
<div>Just like your experience - mine is below
the center cover mounting boss; there is a
ridge there just above the distributor drive.</div>
<div>Was this where the one you worked on was ?<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Actually looks someone tried to repair it
before. Have no idea what they used, but is a
soft white putty like substance and the oozing
got worse when I removed it. Had the coolant
under pressure.</div>
<div>So now have to clean up and think about a
repair technique.</div>
<div>Thank you for responding .</div>
<div>rg<br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
<div>
<div dir="ltr">----------
Forwarded message ---------<br clear="none">
From: <b>Roger Grace</b> <span><<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net" shape="rect">roggrace@telus.net</a>></span><br clear="none">
Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15 AM<br clear="none">
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil<br clear="none">
To: Wayne Schultz <<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="mailto:waschu2@gmail.com" shape="rect">waschu2@gmail.com</a>><br clear="none">
Cc: <<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" shape="rect">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br clear="none">
</div>
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Wayne,</div>
<div>Thank you. That sounds very similar
to my situation. Not quite sure that I
understand what you mean by the boss
that goes down to the sump ? Is this the
oil return path - interesting. Yes, my
plan is to get the pan off and
pressurize the coolant with some dye in
it and hopefully locate it. </div>
<div>So your repair was done with the
tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
block weakness and I get lucky with a
similar fault.</div>
<div>rg<br clear="none">
</div>
</div>
<div id="m_-1750315590383346962m_8760898680477669716ydpbb1b946fyiv3499248027m_1672260542168041566m_-2987158626209960444DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br clear="none">
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<div>
<div dir="ltr">On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at
9:14 PM Wayne Schultz <<a rel="noreferrer noopener" href="mailto:waschu2@gmail.com" shape="rect">waschu2@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">Hi Roger,
<div>My friend who had a Healey 3000
had a similar issue. We would
find coolant in the oil on the
dipstick and filler cap. I found
when we pressurized the cooling
system with the engine warm, no leak
noted, with the engine cold a slight
coolant leak in pressure. I decided
to drop the oil pan to look for
leaks and found a very slight leak
internally dripping into the oil pan
area. We found that the leak was
from the boss in between the 6 and 7
tappets. With that tappet cover
off we could see coolant drips
forming in that boss running down
into the pan area. It would only
leak when cold. Porosity? I think
so. I decided to Peen the boss with
a punch and seal with JB Weld. It
has been good ever since. I suggest
dropping your oil pan to look for
leaks might be the least invasive
first step in locating your
problem. Good luck. </div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div> Wayne</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
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