[Healeys] End of an Era - Route 66 trip - car preparation

Sun Jul 28 04:20:51 MDT 2024

Steve:

Allen Hendrix has made a fitting that is welded to the seat frame with a bar about 1–2-inch bar that cants the back seat the same inches backwards.  Installed it on my drivers’ side and it is wonderful as I was 6-foot 1 inch at that time. At the same time, I moved the seat frame back as far as I could to the frame thereby giving my legs a more room and more comfortable angle for my back.  Try it you will like it.

Bob Begani

67 BJ8

From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com> 
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2024 9:26 PM
To: rfbegani at gmail.com
Cc: gradea1 at charter.net; Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>; richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an Era - Route 66 trip - car preparation

I have a BJ8, and I’ve always wondered about canting the seat back…on my car I just don’t see how it would work because it’s pushed back as far as it will go and hits the quarter panel trim.

I’ve got nowhere to go as far as canting it back- I would have to move the seat forward, and  I would  then not have enough room for my legs …maybe a lot of you BJ8 owners have shorter legs than me?

Over the years I’ve thought about removing the quarter panel trim, but that would be kind of ugly. 

I’ve driven the car across North America, and many miles since, so I’ve learned to get used to it, but it’s definitely not the ideal driving position!

Stephen, BJ8

On Jul 27, 2024, at 6:48 AM, rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>  wrote:

I have used all the insulation mentioned to the outside and inside of the entire compartment in addition to the header pipes all the way to the mufflers.  For the seats, their cover has been replaced with real leather, extra padding and installed the metal lift from Hendrix to Kant the back of the seat along with moving the seat as far back as possible.  I am 6 foot one with long legs as a result I am much more comfortable driving the long trips, although have not taken any in many years. Meanwhile, still enjoying my Healey on 2- and 3-hour trips in the SW Florida winter.  Never in the summer.  82 years young!

Really do enjoy these conversations,

Bob Begani 

67 BJ8 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Hank Leach via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2024 12:58 AM
To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net> >; richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an Era - Route 66 trip - car preparation

As long as we are all showing our underwear, here is my solution to the heat issues.  I used a composite aluminum bubble wrap called Prodex on the 100 floorboards and tunnel cover prior to the standard proper underlayment. It made a huge difference in heat and sound. Hank
-------------------- 

From: "Harold Manifold" <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net> > 
To: "richard mayor" <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> > 
Cc: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > 
Sent: July 26, 2024 at 6:16 PM PDT 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] End of an Era - Route 66 trip - car preparation 

Since we are on this topic I did something similar to Richard. Under the insulation boards on the engine side of the foot well I put a layer of Kool Mat. On the inside of the foot well a layer of Noico sound deadening and then a layer of Noico insulation liner. Just to be safe I wrapped the headers. The attached picture is fitting the Koot Mat before installing the insulation boards. 

I had never restored a Healey before but was warned about the infamous Healey Hot Foot. My approach might be a bit of overkill but no problems with hot feet.

Harold

On Fri, Jul 26, 2024 at 2:20 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> > wrote:

I insulated the footwells from the engine side with an adhesive heat barrier material used in race cars.  Sorry, can’t tell you the manufacturer.  I made sure there were no cracks, gaps or holes. Any firewall gaps where cables or hoses go through  were sealed with dum-dum (3 M black rope caulk).  I used Hush Mat on the inside of my foot well.  I put the Hush Mat all across the top of the inside of the firewall where that strip of tar paper is applied and I also covered the air box that goes across the inside of the firewall.

 I eliminated the two piece metal tunnel and tunnel extension and used a BJ8 fiberglass tunnel which makes a really good seal in that area. Finally, I put side vents in my fenders that allows the heat to flow out and eliminates that high pressure area in the transmission tunnel.  I have no insulation, inside or out, and no carpeting  on my BJ8 tunnel.  It gets fairly warm on hot days but it does not get hot. 

I can drive my car in 90 degree weather and my feet stay cool.  

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