[Healeys] BJ8 1967 Engine Rebuild failure

[Michael MacLean]

Very difficult to find main caps that just require a line bore.  The
centerline of the bore can be off in the vertical and one of the mating
surfaces can be machined to bring the centerline of the bore up or down.
If the centerline was bored even a fraction laterally, you are screwed.
Your only option is to find someone that has rebuilt a lot of Healey
engines.  Usually they have a box of main caps left over from years of
engine assembly.  You might get lucky and find main caps that are centered
laterally.  A whole set might be a little difficult though.  That's how I
got lucky with my 100 engine build. I was given a block with one end main
cap.  I got lucky and found two more caps on Ebay among a bunch of six
cylinder parts someone was selling.  The two mail caps were the ones I
needed, but the centerline was off in the vertical.  A little machining of
the faces of the caps brought it down right in line. A quick line bore and
the crank spun around a revolution by hand.  The assembly and how I
acquired the parts for this engine is a story in itself.  Starting off with
a bottom end with only one main cap and a chunk of cast iron broken out of
the water pump hole like someone got frustrated be cause the could not get
the bottom stud and nut out and just levered the pump down and broke the
piece of the block out like someone took a bite of the hole the impeller
goes in.  Ever try to find someone that can braze cast iron well?  Every
part acquisition was a story in itself.
Mike MacLean

On Fri, Feb 9, 2024 at 10:28 AM Chris Scholz via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I had a similar incident.  I swapped in an aluminum LS1 with an GM
> transmission.  My car is 200lbs lighter and so much more fun to drive.  My
> reliability is excellent.
> Sent from my iPhone
> Chris Scholz OD
>
> On Feb 9, 2024, at 10:13 AM, rfbegani at gmail.com wrote:
>
> 
>
> Gentlemen:
>
>
>
> I arrived back to Florida in May and decide to drive my 67 Austin-Healey.
> Drove it a mile and heard clanking engine, looked at the oil pressure, It
> was O! Instead of stooping to have towed home, I drove it back slowly.
> Last month, I dropped the pan and started to remove the rod and crank caps
> and bearings.  My mechanic friend said you got lucky the crank may only
> need polishing and new bearings.  So, I packed and marked each of the main
> bearing caps, bolts, and bearings along with piston rods and caps in
> individual plastic bags. Then packed them into a larger plastic bag which
> was put under the workbench near the garbage.  We towed the car to Mikes
> garage so he could pull and disassemble the engine.  Tuesday, he asked me
> to bring the parts I had removed from the engine so he would have
> everything in one place.  I looked around but could not find this black
> plastic bag and then remembered it got pitched in the garbage. So, I am now
> up the famous creek and am asking this group what I can do?
>
>
>
>    1. I am told the engine is finished because the Main Bearing caps are
>    not available and even if you could find them, they would need to be line
>    bored on the engine.
>    2. I am told that finding an engine block for a 3000 with original
>    main bearing caps is almost impossible.
>    3. Finding an engine to be rebuild might be possible.
>
>
>
> My engine was rebuilt 6000 miles with years ago everything new, so I would
> like to find a way of fixing the existing engine, if possible.
>
>
>
> Please give me your advice.
>
>
>
> Best regards,
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
>
> 67 Austin-Healey BJ8
>
>
>
>
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