[Healeys] Heater query

Bob Spidell bspidell at comcast.net
Mon Jul 17 15:04:43 MDT 2023


David,

That's what my BN2 and BJ8 run at highway speed--except in Death Valley 
at 115deg--both with stock but re-cored radiators.

It's sitting still at idle that hurts; what does your car run after a 
couple minutes sitting at idle? As a side note, the only thing that 
really helped for the BJ8 was the 7-bladed flex fan and shroud kit you 
and your dad used to sell. But the fan was just too dang loud at 
idle--it blew dust out from under the car sitting still--but I still 
have the shroud mounted.

Bob

On 7/17/2023 11:18 AM, David Nock BCS via Healeys wrote:
> For an update on radiators and cooling
> This Sunday the GGAHC had their Ice Cream Social in Danville 
> California, Afterwards I had wine event and a friends winery in Lodi.
> If you havent heard we are in the middle of a major heat wave here in 
> Central California. The day time temp at noon on Sunday way 105 
> degrees and warmed up to a mild 109 by 4 pm.
> Of course since I started out at our Club event I took the Healey. 
> With a alluminium radiator.
> The engine temperature ran a steady 185 to  190 degrees at 70 mph
> This is how  I like to test something. A real life personal test on 
> how a part works.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
> *From:* David Nock BCS
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 9:08 AM
> *To:* Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> We have been dealing with the British  Car industry for only about 70 
> years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer 
> in the 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing 
> strictly British Cars the entire time.
> WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up 
> until about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high 
> efficency radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the 
> cores, change the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure 
> cap, correct thermostats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these 
> things helped.
> I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my 
> own personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a 
> highly upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, 
> perfomance MSD ignition and much more. I was continually having hot 
> running problems here in the central valley of California with the 
> summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110.
> I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium 
> radiator, with 2 rows of  1” tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 
> 2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing 
> is a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially 
> gave us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.
> Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube 
> to fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.
> Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and 
> immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees 
> depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic 
> speeds. It was much better  but I wanted to make it better. So I 
> installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all 
> the heating issues are gone.
> So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and 
> tubes, the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test 
> in my car proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> *From:* Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried 
> oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my 
> original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is 
> original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little 
> challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.  I 
> have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high 
> speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they 
> should be. Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost 
> impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it 
> has worked to perfection.
> Len B
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of 
> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys 
> <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to 
> be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or 
> re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more 
> expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone 
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I live in the sunny South (90°F and 90% relative humidity today) and I 
> used to refer to my BJ8’s heater as the “auxiliary engine cooler”; but 
> I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core 
> installed in the radiator and added a 190°sleeved thermostat that I 
> bought from Kees.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
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