[Healeys] Heater query

Mon Jul 17 15:03:21 MDT 2023

That's what my BN2 and BJ8 run at highway speed--except in Death Valley 
at 115deg--both with stock but re-cored radiators.

It's sitting still at idle that hurts; what does your car run after a 
couple minutes sitting at idle? As a side note, the only thing that 
really worked for the BJ8 was the 7-bladed flex fan and shroud kit you 
and your dad used to sell, but the fan was just too dang loud at idle 
(it blew dust out from under the car sitting still).

Bob

On 7/17/2023 11:18 AM, David Nock BCS via Healeys wrote:
> For an update on radiators and cooling
> This Sunday the GGAHC had their Ice Cream Social in Danville 
> California, Afterwards I had wine event and a friends winery in Lodi.
> If you havent heard we are in the middle of a major heat wave here in 
> Central California. The day time temp at noon on Sunday way 105 
> degrees and warmed up to a mild 109 by 4 pm.
> Of course since I started out at our Club event I took the Healey. 
> With a alluminium radiator.
> The engine temperature ran a steady 185 to  190 degrees at 70 mph
> This is how  I like to test something. A real life personal test on 
> how a part works.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
> *From:* David Nock BCS
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 9:08 AM
> *To:* Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> We have been dealing with the British  Car industry for only about 70 
> years, from an independent shop in the 50s and 60s, then a BL dealer 
> in the 70s and 80s. Then back to an independent repair shop dealing 
> strictly British Cars the entire time.
> WE have dealt with running hot and overheating the entire time. Up 
> until about 10 years ago we had been installing a special high 
> efficency radiator core in all our radiators. We would not paint the 
> cores, change the necks to a short neck allowing a higher pressure 
> cap, correct thermostats, installed air ducts correctly. All of these 
> things helped.
> I am personnally hesitant to make changes until I have installed in my 
> own personal car and actually seen a difference. On my BN4 I have a 
> highly upgraded motor, a 3000 motor that is bored .060 over, 
> perfomance MSD ignition and much more. I was continually having hot 
> running problems here in the central valley of California with the 
> summer temps always in the high 90s and upto 110.
> I removed one of my upgraded radiators and installed an alluminium 
> radiator, with 2 rows of  1” tubes. The original Healey radiator is a 
> 2 row core with 1/2 tubes, the upgraded core we have been installing 
> is a 3 row core with 3/8 tubes with a new style fin. This esentially 
> gave us more tube to fin area as well as more fin to air surface.
> Now with the newer alloy radiator we gained more tube size, more tube 
> to fin and more fin to air contact, This making better cooling.
> Now for the test, I installed the alloy radiator in my car, and 
> immediately the running temperature dropped by about 10 to 20 degrees 
> depending on the day. However I still had an issue with slow traffic 
> speeds. It was much better  but I wanted to make it better. So I 
> installed a pusher fan on a thermostat set at 180 degrees, and now all 
> the heating issues are gone.
> So maybe if you compare equal sized radiators with equal fins and 
> tubes, the copper brass radiators are better. But my own personal test 
> in my car proved to me that the alloy radiator was the cure.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> *From:* Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 13, 2023 6:43 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried 
> oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my 
> original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is 
> original but the lower is thicker, which made installation a little 
> challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years.  I 
> have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high 
> speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they 
> should be. Strongly recommend this option, especially since it almost 
> impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it 
> has worked to perfection.
> Len B
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of 
> warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; BJ8Healeys 
> <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Heater query
> My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to 
> be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or 
> re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more 
> expensive, which leads to the aluminum option.
> Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone 
> know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?
> Gary H
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I live in the sunny South (90°F and 90% relative humidity today) and I 
> used to refer to my BJ8’s heater as the “auxiliary engine cooler”; but 
> I no longer have to use  it that way since I had a modern core 
> installed in the radiator and added a 190°sleeved thermostat that I 
> bought from Kees.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
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