[Healeys] Lower Stator Tube for Trafficator

[Harold Manifold]

Stator tube is out!

The lower stator tube is out and as suspected the end that should engage
with the trafficator was damaged beyond repair. I have ordered a new part.

I wasn't able to remove the stator at the steering box end. The tube hit
the shroud and I didn't want to loosen the steering column. I cut a 6"
length of 3/8" redi rod and used it to push the tube towards the steering
wheel and was able to remove it that way.

The tip about using the 3/8" bolt to stop the fluid leaking out was a good
one.

Harold

On Mon, Feb 13, 2023 at 10:33 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Yup (if there's any left in the box).
>
>
> On 2/13/2023 8:40 AM, Harold Manifold wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the replies and the information. I can confirm the olive is
> tight and the lower doesn't rotate but the trafficator can rotate freely
> with no resistance. It looks like the problem is inside the
> steering column. I will remove the trafficator and lower stator tube and
> report back.
>
> Do I need to be prepared for the steering box fluid to leak out when the
> lower stator is removed?
>
> Harold
>
> On Mon, Feb 13, 2023 at 3:20 AM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> wrote:
>
>> The short stator tube, connected to the control head, has three dimples
>> that ride in a slot in the long stator tube.  The short stator tube fits
>> over the long stator tube.  Looks to me that the slot was cut with a
>> slitting saw leaving a knife edge corners where the cracks originate.
>> I've made some long stator tubes, using an end mill to put a round end
>> to the slot as Bob suggests.
>>
>> Hank, the fishing line that you use - line used to catch fish or to fish
>> wires through walls (fish tape)?  If the former, how do you get the line
>> feed through the tube?  I would tie it to the harness and pull it
>> through when you remove the harness.  Or using some bailing wire to feed
>> it through.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>>
>> On 2/12/23 20:39, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> > You have to pull the trafficator wiring harness up through the stator
>> > regardless to get the trafficator out and the wheel off. Once you've
>> > done that, I can't think of an easy way to grab the stator, so you're
>> > better off just pulling the stator out at the box (i.e. 'by the book').
>> >
>> > Two things cause the trafficator to rotate with the wheel: the stator
>> > isn't secured by the olive and nut at the box end, or one or both of
>> > the sections--long lower and short upper--are damaged somehow. They
>> > aren't technically connected, the short upper part slides inside the
>> > lower and has a dimple that fits in a slot in the lower. The slot is
>> > cut square and it often cracks at the end (it should be radiused IMO).
>> >
>> > When you get everything back together, presumably with a new stator,
>> > make sure there's a small gap--20 thou or so--between the trafficator
>> > and the hub so the hub doesn't drag the trafficator when you turn.
>> > Check first to see that it's not just a loose olive and nut; if so, it
>> > will likely leak quite a bit, but it's an easy fix.
>> >
>> > Bob
>> >
>> > On 2/12/2023 2:49 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:
>> >> Hello,
>> >>
>> >> I have started to road test my car and discovered the trafficator
>> >> rotates with the steering wheel. The car has adjustable steering and
>> >> further investigation strongly indicates the upper and lower stator
>> >> tubes are not connecting inside the steering column.
>> >>
>> >> Question - Can the lower stator tube be removed through the steering
>> >> wheel end of the steering column?
>> >>
>> >> Any tips and suggestions on how to do this job are appreciated.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks... Harold
>> >>
>> >
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