<div dir="ltr">Stator tube is out!<div><br></div><div>The lower stator tube is out and as suspected the end that should engage with the trafficator was damaged beyond repair. I have ordered a new part.</div><div><br></div><div>I wasn't able to remove the stator at the steering box end. The tube hit the shroud and I didn't want to loosen the steering column. I cut a 6" length of 3/8" redi rod and used it to push the tube towards the steering wheel and was able to remove it that way.</div><div><br></div><div>The tip about using the 3/8" bolt to stop the fluid leaking out was a good one.</div><div><br></div><div>Harold</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 13, 2023 at 10:33 AM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
  
    
  
  <div>
    Yup (if there's any left in the box).<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 2/13/2023 8:40 AM, Harold Manifold
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite">
      
      <div dir="ltr">Thanks for all the replies and the information. I
        can confirm the olive is tight and the lower doesn't rotate but
        the trafficator can rotate freely with no resistance. It looks
        like the problem is inside the steering column. I will remove
        the trafficator and lower stator tube and report back.
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Do I need to be prepared for the steering box fluid to leak
          out when the lower stator is removed?</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Harold</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 13, 2023 at 3:20
          AM Bob Haskell <<a href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net" target="_blank">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>>
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">The
          short stator tube, connected to the control head, has three
          dimples <br>
          that ride in a slot in the long stator tube.  The short stator
          tube fits <br>
          over the long stator tube.  Looks to me that the slot was cut
          with a <br>
          slitting saw leaving a knife edge corners where the cracks
          originate.  <br>
          I've made some long stator tubes, using an end mill to put a
          round end <br>
          to the slot as Bob suggests.<br>
          <br>
          Hank, the fishing line that you use - line used to catch fish
          or to fish <br>
          wires through walls (fish tape)?  If the former, how do you
          get the line <br>
          feed through the tube?  I would tie it to the harness and pull
          it <br>
          through when you remove the harness.  Or using some bailing
          wire to feed <br>
          it through.<br>
          <br>
          Cheers,<br>
          <br>
          Bob Haskell<br>
          Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar<br>
          <br>
          On 2/12/23 20:39, Bob Spidell wrote:<br>
          > You have to pull the trafficator wiring harness up
          through the stator <br>
          > regardless to get the trafficator out and the wheel off.
          Once you've <br>
          > done that, I can't think of an easy way to grab the
          stator, so you're <br>
          > better off just pulling the stator out at the box (i.e.
          'by the book').<br>
          ><br>
          > Two things cause the trafficator to rotate with the
          wheel: the stator <br>
          > isn't secured by the olive and nut at the box end, or one
          or both of <br>
          > the sections--long lower and short upper--are damaged
          somehow. They <br>
          > aren't technically connected, the short upper part slides
          inside the <br>
          > lower and has a dimple that fits in a slot in the lower.
          The slot is <br>
          > cut square and it often cracks at the end (it should be
          radiused IMO).<br>
          ><br>
          > When you get everything back together, presumably with a
          new stator, <br>
          > make sure there's a small gap--20 thou or so--between the
          trafficator <br>
          > and the hub so the hub doesn't drag the trafficator when
          you turn. <br>
          > Check first to see that it's not just a loose olive and
          nut; if so, it <br>
          > will likely leak quite a bit, but it's an easy fix.<br>
          ><br>
          > Bob<br>
          ><br>
          > On 2/12/2023 2:49 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:<br>
          >> Hello,<br>
          >><br>
          >> I have started to road test my car and discovered the
          trafficator <br>
          >> rotates with the steering wheel. The car has
          adjustable steering and <br>
          >> further investigation strongly indicates the upper
          and lower stator <br>
          >> tubes are not connecting inside the steering column.<br>
          >><br>
          >> Question - Can the lower stator tube be removed
          through the steering <br>
          >> wheel end of the steering column?<br>
          >><br>
          >> Any tips and suggestions on how to do this job are
          appreciated.<br>
          >><br>
          >> Thanks... Harold<br>
          >><br>
          ><br>
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