[Healeys] Anti-Seize Redux was Re: Tightening bolts

[Bob Spidell]

In case we haven't beaten this to death:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj-kmIbSQvk


On 10/10/2022 9:28 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> It's not, or shouldn't be, friction on the threads that holds a bolted 
> joint together; it's the loaded tension of the stretched bolt. For any 
> bolted joint potentially exposed to moisture, with a few exceptions*, 
> anti-seize is appropriate. Common (cheap) anti-seize, which uses 
> ground ceramics, is OK for non-high-temp applications; copper-based is 
> better, and nickel-based is best for high-temp applications (ex. EGR 
> valves, spark plugs, etc.).
>
> Like Mirek, and after much thought, I've taken to carefully putting a 
> bit of A-S on brake fitting threads. Maybe it's newer (lack of) 
> quality fittings and cylinders, but in the brake work I've done 
> recently the fittings haven't screwed-in as easily as I think they 
> should, and we've all probably rounded the 'nut' on brake fittings 
> that have gotten corrosion-welded in place (requiring cutting and 
> replacing the line and possibly the cylinder). Note brake fluid 
> shouldn't ever come in contact with the A-S, if the BF is getting past 
> its seal that has to be addressed properly.
>
> Fasterner 'science' is fascinating
>
> Explained well here:
> https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=bolt+fastening+theory#kpvalbx=_IzREY-bKO43ZkPIP16m4qAE_44
>
> More:
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint
>
> * Where I don't use A-S, I may use threadlocker (usually blue, red for 
> inserts). I can't make up my mind on wheel studs; A-S for easy 
> removal, threadlocker for 'security' or nothing. Note both A-S and 
> threadlocker will affect bolt/stud tension for a given torque value.
>
>
>
> On 10/10/2022 5:04 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Hi Simon, I often use an anti-seize paste on threads and I have never 
>> had a fastener loosen off and it definitely aids removal later.  For 
>> example, One common component to seize is the capillary tube where it 
>> goes through the nut on the temperature sensor.  For decades I have 
>> coated the tube where it passes through the nut,  as well as the 
>> thread, and it makes removal of that nasty little thing so much 
>> easier.  Mind you, it is a tapered pipe thread and they tend to stay 
>> tight.  Another instance is brake line fittings; I slide the fitting 
>> back, lightly coat the brake line and then slide the fitting up to 
>> the flare, and coat the threads on the fitting, taking care not to 
>> get any into the hydraulic circuit.  I have never broken a brake line 
>> from it seizing in the nut after doing this. I use “Copper Anti 
>> Seize” made by Permatex.
>>
>> Cheers, Mirek
>>
>> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Simon 
>> Lachlan via Healeys
>> *Sent:* October 10, 2022 7:30 AM
>> *To:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Tightening bolts
>>
>> I had to loosen the bolts attaching the hinges on my BT7 the other 
>> day. 6 of them turned quite easily after some fairly hefty initial 
>> work. One needs a couple of whacks with an impact driver to get it 
>> started and one was just plain loose.
>>
>> So, now I want to tighten them up. Plainly, I want to be able to undo 
>> them again at some time or other….
>>
>> Does the team think that something like Coppaslip (or whatever it’s 
>> called) is a good idea. Half of me says, “Use it. You’ll be able to 
>> tighten them up that little bit more while still being able to undo 
>> them later”.
>>
>> And the other half says, “Don’t use it. It will enable the bolts to 
>> loosen themselves off.”
>>
>> Which half of me is right???
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>
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