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In case we haven't beaten this to death:<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj-kmIbSQvk">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kj-kmIbSQvk</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/10/2022 9:28 AM, Bob Spidell
wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:759fc6e0-f8d3-5214-43dc-ae4ca1aefe4c@comcast.net">
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It's not, or shouldn't be, friction on the threads that holds a
bolted joint together; it's the loaded tension of the stretched
bolt. For any bolted joint potentially exposed to moisture, with a
few exceptions*, anti-seize is appropriate. Common (cheap)
anti-seize, which uses ground ceramics, is OK for non-high-temp
applications; copper-based is better, and nickel-based is best for
high-temp applications (ex. EGR valves, spark plugs, etc.). <br>
<br>
Like Mirek, and after much thought, I've taken to carefully
putting a bit of A-S on brake fitting threads. Maybe it's newer
(lack of) quality fittings and cylinders, but in the brake work
I've done recently the fittings haven't screwed-in as easily as I
think they should, and we've all probably rounded the 'nut' on
brake fittings that have gotten corrosion-welded in place
(requiring cutting and replacing the line and possibly the
cylinder). Note brake fluid shouldn't ever come in contact with
the A-S, if the BF is getting past its seal that has to be
addressed properly.<br>
<br>
Fasterner 'science' is fascinating <br>
<br>
Explained well here:<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=bolt+fastening+theory#kpvalbx=_IzREY-bKO43ZkPIP16m4qAE_44"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=bolt+fastening+theory#kpvalbx=_IzREY-bKO43ZkPIP16m4qAE_44</a><br>
<br>
More:<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint</a><br>
<br>
* Where I don't use A-S, I may use threadlocker (usually blue, red
for inserts). I can't make up my mind on wheel studs; A-S for easy
removal, threadlocker for 'security' or nothing. Note both A-S and
threadlocker will affect bolt/stud tension for a given torque
value.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/10/2022 5:04 AM, m.g.sharp---
via Healeys wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Hi Simon, I often use an anti-seize paste
on threads and I have never had a fastener loosen off and it
definitely aids removal later. For example, One common
component to seize is the capillary tube where it goes
through the nut on the temperature sensor. For decades I
have coated the tube where it passes through the nut, as
well as the thread, and it makes removal of that nasty
little thing so much easier. Mind you, it is a tapered pipe
thread and they tend to stay tight. Another instance is
brake line fittings; I slide the fitting back, lightly coat
the brake line and then slide the fitting up to the flare,
and coat the threads on the fitting, taking care not to get
any into the hydraulic circuit. I have never broken a brake
line from it seizing in the nut after doing this. I use
“Copper Anti Seize” made by Permatex.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Cheers, Mirek<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-CA" lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-CA" lang="EN-US">
Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Simon Lachlan via Healeys<br>
<b>Sent:</b> October 10, 2022 7:30 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Healeys' <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Tightening bolts<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I had to loosen the
bolts attaching the hinges on my BT7 the other day. 6 of
them turned quite easily after some fairly hefty initial
work. One needs a couple of whacks with an impact driver
to get it started and one was just plain loose.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">So, now I want to
tighten them up. Plainly, I want to be able to undo them
again at some time or other….<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Does the team think
that something like Coppaslip (or whatever it’s called) is
a good idea. Half of me says, “Use it. You’ll be able to
tighten them up that little bit more while still being
able to undo them later”.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">And the other half
says, “Don’t use it. It will enable the bolts to loosen
themselves off.”<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Which half of me is
right???<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Thanks, <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Simon<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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