[Healeys] Oil grade for 100 Le Mans

[gradea1 at charter.net]

Michaels-what a timely request. Just last week, I changed the oil in
my MK1 Sprite. I normally use 30W conventional oil. When I went to the
various auto stores in my town, all I could find was synthetic or
synthetic blends. By luck one of the "Grocery" stores was selling some
Castrol 20-50 regular oil in a 5qt jug for $19.95. (closeout?) I
bought it, and changed the oil and the car road tested ran perfect and
sounded great with clean oil and same oil pressure as previous. In
fear, I went back and bought the last two remaining jugs of this
elixir they had on the shelf.
Back when these cars were introduced, multi-grades were just starting
to become available and Geoff Healey stated that although interesting,
they would still recommend 30W. I plan to use it in the 100 and BJ8,
also, as factory specified, in the Jensen-Healey. I have had occasion
to see synthetics, due to there small molecular size, leak out of
these cars whereas the conventional oil will stay in.
I think if Geoff was still with us today, he would agree that there is
nothing wrong with multi-grades but probably not recommend synthetics
unless you could keep a diaper under your Healey. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter via
Healeys" 
To: "Michael Oritt"
Cc: "Austin Healey"
Sent: Sunday March 20 2022 1:51:06PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil grade for 100 Le Mans

 IMHO Michael that will be absolutely no problem. 
 M  
 On Sun., Mar. 20, 2022, 4:45 p.m. Michael Oritt via Healeys,  wrote:
   Through a stupid mistake on my part today I purchased eight quarts
of 20w50 synthetic Amsoil rather than the 10w40 I normally use
year-round. Unfortunately I discovered this mistake this afternoon
only after I completed the oil/filter change. 
 I am concerned that this higher-viscosity oil might in some way
damage my engine. It has been about 60-70K miles from the engine's
having been professionally rebuilt and while oil pressure has fallen
somewhat over the last several years the gauge still indicates about
40 psi at 2500-3K rpm's and about 20 psi at fast idle with 10w40, in
both cases with hot oil and at normal engine operating temperature. I
took the car for a very short spin after completing the change and I
am quite sure I did not did not get the oil up to full operating
temperatures but in any case the OP did seem a few psi higher than
what I am used to seeing 
 At this point I have about $125.00 invested in the mistake: seven
quarts and a new K&N filter. If my fear is verified by your opinions I
am certainly willing to drain and refill--I certainly do not want to
be driving around if there is a real risk of causing damage.  
 I eagerly await the group wisdom. 
 Best--Michael Oritt 
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