[Healeys] BN1 brake system

Wed Aug 31 09:14:35 MDT 2022

Look closely at the pipes and bleed screws on the front cylinders the brake line connect at the top of the cylinder and the bleed screw goes in the bottom hole. This is totally wrong to any other cylinder.  The bleed screw always goes to the top of the cylinder because that is where the air is.

Then take a three pair of vice grips and pinch off all the flex hoses, you should have a solid pedal right up to the top. If  not there is air or a problem in the master cylinder.

Then remove one pair at a time starting at the rear. Try the brakes each time, when you loose the brakes that is where the problem is.

Look at the contact area of the shoes. Most of the brake shoe area must be touching the drums otherwise you will be flexing the shoes. Many of the new shoes on the market are not arced to a drum.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Alan Seigrist 
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2022 4:23 AM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
Cc: Healeys 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 brake system

Actually - part of the problem is the BN1 and some BN2 bleeder valves originally had a separate ball inside the slave’s bleeder which the little ball sealed the system.  Over the years i’m sure that ball has been lost and maybe you think the bleed screw is sealing the slave when it really isn’t until it’s fully cinched.  That also can contribute to the inability to get a firm pedal.  

Cheers,

Alan

On Wed, 31 Aug 2022 at 4:16 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

  Yes, for sure, an Eezibleeder helps. Keep the air pressure down, maybe a bit less than suggested in the destructions

  Otherwise, see this, below, from one of my manuals. (Curiously, not in all of them).

  ““If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a considerable time, it is possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such cases tighten the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stroke* of the pedal and allow the pedal to return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal application.”

  *ie to prevent air being drawn in during the upward passage of the pedal. (SDL 14/08/2019)”

  I suppose that, the brakes being old, the threads get worn and let air back in as the pedal goes back up. So, I tighten the bleeder as the fluid is still coming out, ie before the downward stroke is finished. Slows the process up somewhat and tries the patience of ones wifely assistant.

  Good luck anyhow.

  Simon

  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Leong via Healeys
  Sent: 31 August 2022 06:19
  To: 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' <healeys at autox.team.net>
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 brake system

  Use a power pressure bleeder (I have a Motive Bleeder) and tap on the slaves to loosen any air bubbles. Make sure there are no high spots where air can get trapped and not be purged out of the bleeder screw

  Dave

  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of warthodson--- via Healeys
  Sent: Tuesday, August 30, 2022 5:27 PM
  To: healeys at autox.team.net
  Subject: [Healeys] BN1 brake system

  We have been trying for several months to bleed the brakes on RHD BN1, to no avail. The car has been professionally restored & appears to be in excellent condition. Today, we tried again to bleed the system following the shop manual. I.E. backing off the adjusters on the front & back & bleeding & then readjusting the brakes. The results were the same. There seems to be an excessively large amount of pedal travel before the brakes are engaged & when engaged they feel "spongy". We have access to 2 other 100's for reference. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, we are not clear on the adjustment of the free play of the master cylinder. 

  Gary Hodson   

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