[Healeys] 100 ignition advance curve
josef-eckert at t-online.de
josef-eckert at t-online.de
Fri Apr 8 13:21:13 MDT 2022
Doug,
that´s right. 40320 was also in early BN2s , followed by 40495. Francis
asked for distributor advance curves for the BN1.
Josef
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100 ignition advance curve
Datum: 2022-04-08T21:16:24+0200
Von: "dwflagg at juno.com" <dwflagg at juno.com>
An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de>
Hello Josef,
Was not the 40320 also used on the early BN2?
Doug
Hello Francis,
the BN1 LUCAS distributor 40320 has the following characteristics:
distr rpm advance degrees
start 300
600 2°
1250 9°
2500 17°
Vaccum advance
starts 7 Hg/in
ends 18 Hg/in
max degrees 12°
For comparing with the 123 Ignition values you need to convert these into
crankshaft degrees
crankshaft rpm advance degrees crankshaft
600 0°
1200 4°
2500 18°
5000 34°
This is for the BN1 distributor for a standard engine, not "M"-spec. This
has different values.
In case you bought the 123 Ignition which is set for British 4-cylinder
cars (Code GB-4), then the closest curve setting of the 16 to choose, would
be curve "F".You may loose some torque and horsepower compared to a well
tuned and in good shape original LUCAS 40320 distributor.
Better to use the 123 /Tune Version ignition, which is fully programmable.
You can implement the correct original advance curves (centrifugal +
vacuum) with the tune version. In case you go this way, the 123 TUNE with
USB connection (Not the Bluetooth version) is the best way to go.
I am working for a German supplier for British car parts and responsible
for giving advice to iinstallation of electronic ignition systems and all
other electrics.
Josef Eckert
Konigswinter/Germany
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [Healeys] 100 ignition advance curve
Datum: 2022-04-08T08:36:42+0200
Von: "Francis THIBAUD via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
An: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Hi, new contributor here, thanks for your help.
Does anyone know where to find the BN1 Lucas distributor ignition advance
curve ?
I have fitted a 123 distributor, which has a choice of several preset
advance curves, I would like to know the original Lucas curve to set the
123 as close as possible to the original.
Thanks !
Francis THIBAUD
-------- Message d'origine --------
Le 7 avr. 2022 à 20:00, < healeys-request at autox.team.net> a écrit :
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: BN1/2 Windscreen to body seal (Michael MacLean)
2. Re: Starter electrical problem not solved with new starter.
Gremlins? (rfbegani at gmail.com)
3. Re: Sticker stock- machine shop labor (Ricchardd Mayor)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 6 Apr 2022 12:09:39 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com, Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1/2 Windscreen to body seal
Message-ID:
<CAL4ZEOMdor24M=JBSnxSBA719S+RGvx4GSQ9MSdz7zLjueEGFg at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
OK, here are two PDFs that represent the instructions that came with
the
rubber seal bought from British Car Specialist. I followed these
instructions to the letter. Maybe buying the seal from David made the
difference too, but it worked. In addition I went to Home Depot and
purchased a Wagner Furno 300 heat gun and used it on the high setting
to
heat and stretch the rubber at the ends to get the desired result you
see
in the picture. The instructions saved my dumba** from trying to slide
the
seal in from one side. The instructions show a much easier way that one
person can accomplish on their own without help. The stretching and
heating of the ends of the seal are much easier with an extra set of
hands
to hold the windscreen assembly while the other person does the heating
and
stretching. Good luck with yours. No financial interest, just a very
satisfied customer.
On Tue, Apr 5, 2022 at 10:55 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> Mike,
> Would you post the instructions here? I will be installing the seal
some
> day & they sound very helpful.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Apr 4, 2022 11:56 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] BN1/2 Windscreen to body seal
>
> All done with the rubber seal installationat the bottom of my BN2
> windscreen. Asyou can see in the picture I must have done something
> right. Both ends fit nice and tight against the curves. Thank you to
all
> the encouragement from the list, but special thanks to British Car
> Specialists for the instruction sheets they included with the rubber
I
> bought from them. Would never have turned out so well without that
> knowledge. Thanks Dave.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2022 07:48:14 -0400
From: <rfbegani at gmail.com>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>,
<healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
Cc: "'Hermann Schaller'" <hermannschaller at msn.com>,
<goodstuff.17ft at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter electrical problem not solved with new
starter. Gremlins?
Message-ID: <018401d848e3$09186780$1b493680$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Thanks Mike I never seen David?s comment. Am going to replace the
ground strap to the engine. My friend and my brother both having 35
years as mechanics suggested it. I did clean it but, After all it is 55
years young. Will keep you all informed.
Bob
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2022 3:50 AM
To: David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com>
Cc: Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Starter electrical problem not solved with new
starter. Gremlins?
I think David is absolutely correct.
I would suggest taking the ground cable off the battery then use a
battery jumper (booster) cable between the battery terminal and a good
ground, something like a bumper mount, then try the starter.
M
On Mon., Apr. 4, 2022, 10:31 p.m. David Nock, <healeydoc at gmail.com
<mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com> > wrote:
Bad connection at one of the battery cables or battery switch.
Turn on the headlights and leave them on for about 15 minutes. Then go
around and touch the battery and ground cable connections. You will
find one that is warm. Voila there is your bad connection.
David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
209 948 8767
<http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
<<http://www.britishcarspecialists.com> >
Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
by visiting the site at.
<http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org>
<<http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org> >
From: Bob Begani via Healeys
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2022 2:10 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Starter electrical problem not solved with new
starter. Gremlins?
Listeners:
You may recall my comments about the High Torque starter which would go
zap and cause the entire electrical system to go dead. My two friends
are much more knowledgeable than I and could not figure out why.
Eventually I discovered if you take off the battery ground and leave it
off for a few minutes, then reconnect, viola the electrical system
comes alive again. The fuel pump hums, the lights go on, the horn
blows. Unfortunately, when you engage the starter zap goes the starter.
We took the starter off the car and bench tested it. We tested the
positive cable from the battery solenoid, the ground, all connections
and so on. Same problem.
I got a new starter from WOSP and installed it. Same problem. The noise
is always in the starter.
We are stumped IDEAS??
Bob Begani
BJ8 67. .
_____
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2022 07:09:24 -0700
From: Ricchardd Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: Alan Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>, jomar healey
<ah53 at yahoo.com>, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>, S and T Miller
<stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sticker stock- machine shop labor
Message-ID: <5CC767D9-5411-4B3E-8282-2E2F5F8CAE0A at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
My understanding is that today?s inflation is a worldwide phenomenon. I
hope this is not being political.
Richard Mayor
boyracer466 at gmail.com
> On Apr 4, 2022, at 8:37 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Good call Alan. There seems to be some sensitivity on those topics
here...
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Alan
Seigrist via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 5, 2022 3:04 AM
> To: jomar healey <ah53 at yahoo.com>
> Cc: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
<healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sticker stock- machine shop labor
>
> I guess I probably shouldn't make a political comment about
inflation. ?
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 5, 2022 at 9:20 AM jomar healey via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> I had a 100 head done about a year ago in North Jersey where prices
tend to be higher and it came to about $600
>
> Joe
>
> On Monday, April 4, 2022, 08:06:14 PM EDT, S and T Miller via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>
> It's probably been 10 yrs since I last rebuilt an AH engine, so I
might just be out of touch the rising costs. Has anyone recently had
machine shop work done on a 100 engine and could you let me know if
what I paid seems reasonable? I've had work done at this particular
shop and consider them the best around, so the quality of work isn't
questioned. Keep in mind I supplied all parts (valves, springs, guides,
cam bearings, freeze plugs, etc.). Also I delivered a disassembled
engine, and I'm assembling the engine.
>
> Clean and machine stock flywheel $140
>
> Head- cook, Magna Flux, replace guides, machine seats/ guides,
resurface, and assembly $510
>
> Clean, Magna flux and resize rods $260
>
> Clean/ grind crank and machine slinger area for rear seal kit $580
>
> Block- cook, deck, install one cylinder sleeve, bore all 4, line bore
mains, install cam bearings, install freeze plugs, machine lip off rear
main cap for rear seal kit. $1,675
>
> I know this is a loaded question, and really just curious if these
seem a bit inflated. When I Googled average costs, it seems high, but
then again, it's not a Chevy.
> TY, Shawn
>
> The Millers
>
> "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a
test drive."
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