[Healeys] Clutch

[Mark Fawcett]

I used grease.

Mark Fawcett

On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 3:25 PM Mark Donaldson via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Tom,
>
>
>
> In cases like this I have used the old engineers’ trick to *‘hydraulic’*
> the pilot bearing out.
>
> Fill the cavity behind the bearing with oil, insert a ¾” OD drift into the
> bearing, give it a solid belt with a hammer, and it SHOULD pop out.
>
> This procedure has never failed me.  I say SHOULD, as it may not have
> worked for you.
>
> And don’t wear a good shirt whilst doing this.  😊
>
>
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore, NZ
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>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Felts <Tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Sent: Thursday, 2 September 2021 8:00 AM
> To: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch
>
>
>
> I currently have my BJ8 tranny out.  I have had the OD completely
> completely rebuilt and having a few well worn tranny components replaced.  The
> worst part of taking out the tranny and rebuilding is getting the old pilot
> bush out and  a new one installed.  If anyone thinks the Healey clutch is
> a tough job, I invite you to replace clutch components in an E Type.  The
> engine must be pulled with all that has to be disconnected.  I'm in the
> process of removing mine now. That carbon TO bearing rubbed itself down to
> metal:):)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: BJ8Healeys via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>
> Sent: Wed, 01 Sep 2021 15:01:11 -0400 (EDT)
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch
>
>
>
> In January 2014, I removed the gearbox and overdrive from my BJ8 to fix a
> problem with the O/D slipping (low oil pressure) and a bad clutch judder in
> reverse that I had put up with for too long.
>
>
>
> I replaced the clutch release bearing for convenience and because I
> already had the new one in hand.  The new bearing carbon block from Moss
> Motors measured 10/32" thick.  The old one (also Moss Motors, installed
> September
>
> 1997) measured 9/32".   That was only 1/32" wear in 80,534 miles, but
> mostly
>
> long-distance ones.  A photo of the old clutch disc is attached.
>
>
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
>
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
>
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
>
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
>
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
>
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 1, 2021 11:55 AM
>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch
>
>
>
>
>
> As for clutch longevity, there are several significant variables: (your)
> location, type of driving, driving style, etc. For example, if you DD your
> car in San Francisco, I wouldn't expect a clutch to last 50K miles, if that
> long. If you mostly drive highway miles, I think 100K is easily doable; I
> traded my '08 Mustang in at 124K miles with original clutch and brakes.
>
> Although I've been driving manual cars for over 50  years, I still don't
> feel I've 'mastered' them (like landings in an aircraft). Dump the clutch
> too quickly and you'll increase longevity--if you don't break anything--at
> the expense of smoothness, be very delicate and slip it too much and you
> won't get 'normal' longevity. Actually, IMO Healeys are relatively easier
> to drive well, a properly set-up clutch with a Healey's torque makes smooth
> starts easier; my '19 Mustang is high-strung by comparison and I still
> manage to stall it occasionally.
>
>
>
> The release bearing can be problematic as, unlike a true bearing it's a
> known wear item. I heard a while back there were some low quality parts
> going around that failed within a few thousand miles. I'd say if it's more
> than one-third worn--anyone know the original thickness of the
> graphite?--I'd replace it (again, depending on driving circumstances).
>
> Bob
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